Edinburgh is the capital city of Scotland and lies on the East coast on the Firth of Forth. The second highest population in Scotland it is the largest city by area. The city is famous for its architecture and design, both the old town and the new town are World Heritage sites. It has a world famous Castle and hosts the Edinburgh Festival (and Fringe) every year.

The easiest way to get to Edinburgh is by train to Waverley station. There is also the second last station which is Haymarket. These stations are at either end of Princes Street and Haymarket is the stop for Edinburgh's West End

 Edinburgh is a large city with many pubs spread over different areas of the town. Rose Street is a very popular drinking trail so I have ignored it and have introduced nine other pub trails based in Edinburgh. There is a short one viewing pubs at the Grassmarket (red icons) and two slightly longer (or one very long) starting at Haymarket station towards Lothian Rd (green icons) or Princes Street to Haymarket (yellow icons) taking in pubs in the West End and Lothian Road triangle.

All of the pubs are highlighted on the map below.

Now added is a trail Around Bread St, (blue icons) linking West End trails to The Grassmarket Trail and a trail going beyond The Grassmarket (purple icons) and finally The Royal Mile (brown icons).

There are also trails in The Cowgate (dark blue icons), heading to The Southside (orange icons) and Around Waverley Station (light Blue Icons)

 Trail 9 - Around Waverley Station

This tour of the pubs (marked with the light purple indication points on the map) starts at Waverley Station

Come out of Waverley Station and head for the small side exit towards the Royal Mile rather than the busier exit to Princes St.

 Opposite the exit and across the raid is a flight of stair which lead up towards the old town. At the foot of the stairs there is Brewmania then at the first landing is Half Way House (though it is actually closer to the start) further up the stairs is Jinglin' Geordie. From here continue up the stairs and at the top turn left and walk towards The Royal Mile. Before you get there, you will find The Scotsman's Lounge.

You may be tempted to visit The Albanach at the corner opposite on The Royal Mile. However, the trail actually now goes back down hill, past the stairs, and as the road curves round there is The Malt Shovel. After here follow the curve right round and along the street to The Hebrides and walking past The Doric next door, slightly further along is Belushi's. Now return to The Doric.

Now cross the road and make your way to the roundabout you passed after The Malt Shovel. Turn to the right here and walk up Waverley Bridge to Princes Street. On the right is The Booking Office.

leaving here continue up to and turn right into Princes Street. Cross over and walk along to turn up second on the left opposite The Balmoral Hotel.

Up this slight incline is on the opposite corner is The Guildford Arms. Going down the small pavement at the right of it will take you to The Cafe Royal at the next corner.

retracing your steps to Princes Street will return you to Waverley Station.

 Brewmania

 Half Way House is further down the stairs from the Royal Mile situated in the corner of a landing. It is a very small bar with the triangular serving area to the left. 4 large bar stools and 7 small round tables make moving awkward or the making of a friend compulsory.

Low ceiling and crowdedness make it a pleasant wee bar.

Regular in Good Beer Guide, Last 2022, 2025

No. 29 in The Rough Pub Guide - books

Have a pint here

• Real ale:           Carte Blanche (Kelburn) Chocwork orange    (Alchemy);  Extra Pale Ale (Alchemy);  Sunshine on  Lieth (Spey Valley)

• Bitter/Heavy:     Caledonia Best

• Lager:               Tennent’s;  Stella

• Cider:                    Addlestone                                        Guinness

 Jinglin' Geordie is found half way down a long flight of stairs leading from the Royal Mile. It has a longish curved copper bar counter on most of the wall opposite the entrance. bar stools are arranged along the bar. The far end of the room, beyond the bar has banquette seating in two large booths. the usual dark brown wood finish. Natural light is reduced by the windows at the far end being stained glass.

Have a pint here

• Real ale:               Deuchers;  Frankenstein (Greene King);  Bridge to Nowhere (Belhaven)

• Craft Ale:             Coast To Coast

• Bitter/Heavy:     Belhaven best

• Lager:                    Carling;  Heineken;  Tennent’s

The Scotsman’s Lounge is a one roomed bar with a small rectangular servery coming out from wall opposite the door. Stools around the three sides of the counter. There are barrel tables and seating around the sides around sides. No bad thing - a very basic bar, perhaps stretching the definition of lounge.

Have a pint here

• Bitter/Heavy:                     Deuchers;  Belhaven Best

• Lager:                                    3 Hop; Tennent’s; Carlsberg

• Guinness

The Malt Shovel is a Belhaven bar and food place on the corner of a hill leading down from The Royal Mile. The steepness of the hill means that the bar has three interconnected rooms on two levels. The bar counter is in the lowest room positioned on the left-hand wall. Careful going in the lowest door as it immediately brings you to steps up so that the first two rooms can be on the same level. There is entry to the middle area on either side of a central partition then steps up to the higher area. Most tables are at dining height, some for four and some small round tables. There are some tall tables opposite the counter. The decor is varnished brown wood with old pictures and large mirrors filling the walls. There is outside seating following the corner round.

Have a pint here.

• Real ale:               Pivo Estivo (Kelburn; £4.25);  Dark Dunter   (Broughton) : Oktoberfest (Milestone); Teuchter    (Strathaven)

• Craft Ale:             Ceasar Augustus

• Lager:                   Heineken;  St MungoSchielhallion;  Spaten;     Belhaven Saltire

• Cider :   Aspall                                    Guinness

The Hebrides

A one roomed bar with a genuinely old feel. There is some seating by window at the entrance then the small bar counter is on the left-hand wall. there are four stools by the bar making the room narrow at this point. Beyond the bar counter the space opens up at the back where there are six small tables. The bar has a low ceiling and a well-worn wood interior.

have a pint here.

• Real ale:               Deuchers;   Dark Island

• Bitter/Heavy:     Bellhaven Best

• Lager:                    Stella;  Tennent’s;  Carling

•                                         Guinness

Belushi's is a pleasant narrow sports bar situated below a hostel. The small bar counter is in the middle of the pub with seating to the left. Tall tables line the windows. Right of the bar is also a booth for seating and a doorway to the hostel. TVs allow sports to be shown.

have a half pint

• Bitter/Heavy:                     Deuchers;

• Lager:                    Tennent’s;  Fosters;  Amstel;  Heineken, 1664

• Cider:                Strongbow                                             Guinness

The Doric is a one roomed pub under a bistro The large room has walls of dark wood and a small bar counter at the far end. The walls are covered in large mirrors and pictures with large lights hanging from a high ceiling. There is banquette seating along all of the walls with shelve width tables for resting your drink. One single barrel in the middle gives a generous space for standing enjoying your pint. Unfortunately, the music is supplied from a radio station so adverts punctuate the generally pleasant atmosphere.

have a pint here

• Real ale:                               Deuchers (£2.90);  Edinburgh Castle;  St Andrew’s (Belhaven); Der Weisse

• Craft Ale:                             Coast to Coast

• Bitter/Heavy:    

• Lager:                          Tennent’s; Three Hop

•                                 Guinness

The Booking Office

A good example of Wetherspoon's with the usual choice of brews

Guildford Arms

Good Beer Guide regular, including 2023, 2025

Cafe Royal

Good Beer Guide 2020