EDINBURGH

Trail 6 - The Royal Mile

Edinburgh is the capital city of Scotland and lies on the East coast on the Firth of Forth. The second highest population in Scotland it is the largest city by area. The city is famous for its architecture and design, both the old town and the new town are World Heritage sites. It has a world famous Castle and hosts the Edinburgh Festival (and Fringe) every year.

The easiest way to get to Edinburgh is by train to Waverley station. There is also the second last station which is Haymarket. These stations are at either end of Princes Street and Haymarket is the stop for Edinburgh's West End

 Edinburgh is a large city with many pubs spread over different areas of the town. Rose Street is a very popular drinking trail so I have ignored it and have introduced nine other pub trails based in Edinburgh. There is a short one viewing pubs at the Grassmarket (red icons) and two slightly longer (or one very long) starting at Haymarket station towards Lothian Rd (green icons) or Princes Street to Haymarket (yellow icons) taking in pubs in the West End and Lothian Road triangle.

All of the pubs are highlighted on the map below.

Now added is a trail Around Bread St, (blue icons) linking West End trails to The Grassmarket Trail and a trail going beyond The Grassmarket (purple icons) and finally The Royal Mile (brown icons).

There are also trails in The Cowgate (dark blue icons), heading to The Southside (orange icons) and Around Waverley Station (light Blue Icons)

The Royal Mile

Take a train to Waverley station and leaving by back exit/entrance walk up any hill or steps and hill combined to reach tghe Royal Mile.

 Starting at the top and travelling down the left-hand pavement The Royal Mille then returning up the hill on the opposite side - still the left!

The Ensign Ewart, followed by The Jolly Judge, Deacon Brodies, The Albanach, then three next door to each other - The Mitre, The Royal Mile Tavern and The Whiski Bar. Then on to Number 1 High St, The Tolbooth Tavern and finally The Kilderkiln.

             First on the return journey is Canon's Gait, then The White Horse, The Worlds End, Inn on The Mile and stopping at The Royal McGregor

Pub Facts

 

A place this size is bound to have its own guides to illustrate the vast quantity, quality and styles of pubs.

CAMRA in Edinburgh

Many of the pubs do serve real ale and while a lot of pubs offer a choice of real ale some only offer one which is inevitably Deuchers. Quite often these pubs are only playing at selling real ale and the Deuchers is not as tasty as it can be.

 

Practically every pub offers food at lunch or all day

 Ensign Ewart

 Ensign Ewart is a small two roomed pub at the top of the Royal Mile. Low beamed roof and quite dark it has traditional wooden chairs and tables with settles round side. Decoration reflects battle of Waterloo time. Practically empty pub for one so close to the Castle. Code for toilet! Does food

Have one here

real ale     : Flying Scotsman; Deuchers; Black Sheep

heavy        : Belhaven Best,

lager         :Stella;  Carlsberg

 cider        : Magners                                         Guinness

 The Jolly Judge ★

 The Jolly Judge is a small pub found down a short close which opens out to the pub’s courtyard with outside seating. A few further steps down there is the entrance to a small bar. Seating to the right, servery and some tables to the left.  Low ceiling and low light gives a cellar feel to it.

CAMRA Good Beer Guide regular, including 2023, 2024, 2025

Have a pint here.

Real ale;   Galaxy burst (Alchemy)

Heavy:         Long White Cloud Pale Ale

Lager:         St Mungo;

Rosie Pig Cider; Magners                                              Guinness

 Deacon Brodies Tavern

Deacon Brodies Tavern (a Nicolson’s house) is an impressive corner bar looking out on The Royal Mile. There is seating to either side of the entrance and along the right hand windows. The servery is to the back left.  Food is on offer all day and there is further dining space upstairs. Nicolson’s usual style of dark wood, small tables and fancy gantry.

Have a pint here.

Real  ale;    Deuchers; Shropshire Gold (Salopian); Stewart’s 80/-;  Nilcolson’s Pale Ale;   White Witch (Moorhouses) ;  Winter Lightning

Lager:         Tennent’s;  Peroni;  Schiehallion; Stella; Carling

Cider:          Mortimer                                     Guinness

PLACES TO VISIT WITH PUBTRAILS

 The towns and villages highlighted on this web site have a wide variety of pubs and beers in them.  All of the places are great to visit, whether for a day or longer, and most have tourist attractions for all of the family.

There is a large variety of pubs throughout the different towns shown below. Some you may wish never to visit again but even discovering these can be interesting. There are pubs that you would not take your wife into. While some you could not take your girlfriend into. A few you would not take either into. However, most of the pubs are very pleasant.

HOME MAP of places visited

Alnwick Ambleside Anstruther Bakewell Bamburgh Barnard Castle Bath Berwick upon Tweed Birnam & Dunkeld Bourton on the Water Bowness on Windermere Bridge of Allan Chester Chichester Dunblane Dunoon Edinburgh Ely Fort William Glasgow Gourock Greenock                   Helensburgh Inverness Kelso Keswick Knaresbourgh Largs Linlithgow Lyme Regis Melrose Montrose Newton Stewart North Berwick Norwich Oban Pebbles Penzance Portree Pitlochry Quorn Richmond Rothesay St Andrews Seahouses Seend Shrewsbury Skipton Stirling Stratford-upon-Avon Stockton Heath Whitby Windemere Whitstable York

 Albanach

 Albanach is a small corner bar (Belhaven pub). There is seating either side of the door. There is a fire on the left wall and then the L-shaped bar comes out. Short benches and small tables along right-hand side wall. There is a large dining room through a door at the back of the bar. Outside seating.

Have a pint here.

Real  ale;   Belhaven IPA; St Andrews; Belhaven 80/- Common (Knops)

Heavy:    Belhaven Best;

Lager:     Peroni; Tennent’s; Stella; Carling

Cider     Strongbow                          Guinness

Pub Jukebox:

Alcohol themed music to listen to while you browse.

champagne supernova - Oasis

The Mitre

The Mitre (Nicolson’s) is an impressive bar looking out on The Royal Mile. There is seating to either side of the entrance. The bar narrows with an L-shaped servery and seating continuing down the left-hand side. At rear is a large dining area. Nicolson’s usual style of dark wood, small tables, mirrors and fancy gantry. Outside seating. Food all day.

Have a pint here.

Real  ale;   Deuchers; Stewart’s 80/-; Nilcolson’s Pale Ale;  Otter Bright; Nutty Black (Thwaites)

Lager:         Tennent’s;  Peroni; Stella; Carling

                                                Guinness

 The Royal Mile Tavern

The Royal Mile Tavern has an attractive frontage.  Inside a long wooden floor leading to a bar at the back right. Tall tables to right, small tables to left.  Small seating area up a few stairs at the back of the room. Outside seating

Have a pint here.

Real  ale;   4 pumps with  Edinburgh Castle and Deuchers

Heavy:        Royal Mile Gold; Joker ; Caledonia Best

Lager:        Leffe; Innes & Gunn Lager; Tennent’s;  Estrella

Cuder: Magners                                     Guinness

 Whiski Bar

Whiski Bar has small marble cafe like tables and chairs after the entrance. As tables become rectangular and brown the bar starts on the right-hand side. After the bar the room narrows a little and then opens out again with a large back room. This has around the side seating and tables. It also has a large drop-down screen for TV events. Does food all day and music every evening from 9pm.  Picture window overlooks Royal Mile. There is outside seating on the Royal Mille. As the name implies it has a proud range of whiskies with recommendations and tasting notes for beginners.

Have a pint here.

Real ale:    Deuchers;  Edinburgh Castle

Heavy:         Caledonian 80/-; Innes & Gunn Original; Caesar Augustus

Lager:         Three Hop; 1664; Innes & Gunn; Tennent’s

Rosie Cider                                          Guinness

 Number 1 High Street

Number 1 High Street is a small corner pub. The entrance, on the corner, brings a room with bar to left centre. Just left of entrance is a raised are with three tables. Tables and chairs are placed along the right-hand side. There is a back room of 5 tables and 2 booths. Food is served all day.

Have a pint here.

Real ale;   Odessay (fallen Brewery); No 1 High St; Deuchers;  Black IPA (Stewarts); California Common (Knops)

Heavy:    Belhaven Best;

Lager:  Tennent’s; Stella; Bud

Rosie Cider                                          Guinness

Pub Quiz

Which state in the United States comes last in alphabetical order?

Answer at foot of page

 Tolbooth Tavern

Tolbooth Tavern bills itself as an old Scottish pub. Entrance takes you to a room with the servery occupying the middle of the right-hand side. There is seating around the servery. Further on is a split-level area, for food, reached by a few stairs.

Have a pint here.

Real ale;   Deuchers; Flying Scotsman; Bitter Winter

Heavy:    Red;  McEwan’s 70/-; McEwan’s 80/-

Lager:  Three Hops; Fosters; 1664

Strongbow                          Guinness

The Kilderkin

The Kilderkin is a food serving bar. the servery is against the far wall. Booths are around the window and up the left side wall. There is a second room through to the right beside the end of the servery. This takes you to a small food serving bar and then into a bigger room with booths along the far wall and wooden tables in centre of room.

Have a pint here

real ale:  Edinburgh Castle; Holyrood (Stewart); Seventy (Edinburgh)

heavy:  Belhaven Best; Coast to Coast

Lager:   Fosters; Heineken 3 Hop;

cider:    Symonds Founders                            Murphy’s Stout

 Canons’ Gait ★

Canons’ Gait is a bright modern bar/diner. The floor, walls and tables are all light coloured. The chairs are distressed metal. The Servery is stainless steel. All of these reflect the bright lighting scheme. However, it all works well together. 4 pumps and numerous Scottish craft beers in bottle

Have a pint here.

Good Beer Guide 2013

Real ale;   American Pale Ale (Sonnets); Timorous Beastie (Stratagem) Bishops farewell (Oakham);  1759 (Stewarts)

Heavy:    Caesar Augustus

Lager:  Tennent’s;  St Mungo

Blackthorn                           Guinness

 The White Horse

The White Horse, styled the oldest bar on the mile, has a small front room and larger back room. The servery is in the very bright and white front room. This has five small tables and stools at the small counter. Now an Oyster and seafood Bar

Have a half pint here.

Heavy:    Belhaven Best;

Lager:   Stella; West; Estrella; Carling

Symonds                                             Guinness

 The Waverley

 The Worlds End

The Worlds End is a small bar, made smaller by the left hand side being for food. The right hand side has a small semi-circular servery off of the far wall. There are tables in various corners making good use of the space. Very popular bar.

Have a pint here.

Real ale;  Worlds End (Belhaven) Belhaven Black; Belhaven IPA; Odessay (fallen Brewery); No 1 High St; Deuchers;  Black IPA (Stewarts); California Common (Knops)

Heavy:    Belhaven Best;

Lager:  Tennent’s; Stella; Carling; Innes & Gunn Lager

                                                Guinness

 Inn On The Mile

Inn On The Mile is set in an impressive old building. A few steps takes you to a terraced entrance door. This leads to a large tall room. The servery and stools are to the left while there are tables and chairs down the right-hand side. In the centre left there are stools and a shelf style high table while centre right are booths. There are two large TV screens that are pulled down when showing sport.

Have a pint here.

Real  ale;   Deuchers; Flying Scotsman; Bitter & Twisted;        The Mile Ale

Heavy:    Caledonia Best; Innes & Gunn Original

Lager:     Tennent’s;  Estrella:; Haverlee; Schiehallion

cider:      Magners                                            Guinness

The Copper Still

 (was The Royal McGregor) ★

The Royal McGregor, now The Copper Still, was a small narrow bar which widens out a little. It has raised seating at the end. The servery, with stools, is on the middle right with a few tables lining the wall opposite it. There are some tall tables near the entrance. Some seating outside on Royal Mile. Restaurant downstairs

Have a pint here.

Real  ale;   Dark Island; Corncrake Ale (Orkney

Heavy:       Caledonia Best; Innes & Gunn Original

Lager:       Tennent’s;  Estrella:; Haverlee; Schiehallion

Cider:        Magners                                         Guinness

Links for EDINBURGH city centre Pubtrails

  • Trail 1 - Princes St to Haymarket

    (yellow icons)

    The Huxley (formerly Rutland Bar)

    Ghillie Dhu

    The Angel's Share (formerly Hudsons)

    Ryan's Bar

    HP Mather.

    The Grosvenor

    Au Bar

    Teuchters

    The Voyage of Buck (was Bert's Bar)

    Mercat Bar

    The Haymarket

    Ryries.

  • Trail 2 Haymarket to Lothian Rd

    (green icons)

    This tour of the pubs starts from Haymarket station.

    Ryries (Closed)

    The Haymarket.

    The Jolly Botanist (formerly The Spider's Web)

    Diane's Pool Hall.

    Monty’s (was Carters Bar)

    Thompsons Bar

    Lebinskis (Closed)

    Innes & Gunn Tap (was The Beer Kitchen)

    All Bar One

    Shakespeares

    Red Squirrel

  • Trail 3 - Grassmarket

    (red icons)

    The Grassmarket contains seven pubs and there is an eighth called the Grassmarket just around the corner.

    Biddy Mulligans

    Maggie Dickson's Bar

    The Last Drop

    The White Hart

    The Beehive

    The Black Bull

    Fiddlers Arms

    JC Christie & Sons (formerly The Grassmarket)

  • Trail 4 - Around Bread St

    Walk up the left hand side of Lothian Rd from Princess St and after crossing to small streets start at

    The Red Squirrel

    Shakespeare.

    Innes & Gun Tap (was The Beer Kitchen)

    All Bar One.

    The Hanging Bat.

    The Chanter

    Monboddo.

    The Footlights

    The Blue Blazer

    The Dragonfly Cocktail Bar

    W.J Christie and Son (called The Grassmarket in trail 3).

  • Trail 5 - Beyond Grassmarket

    (purple icons)

    The Castle Arms

    The Bow Bar

    Bar Salsa

    Oz Bar

    Greyfriars Bobby bar

    Sandy Bell's

    Malone's

    The Doctors.

    Boteco Do Brazil

    Paradise Palms

    Frankenstein's

    George IV Bar

  • Trail 6 - Royal Mile

    (Brown icons)

    The Ensign Ewart

    The Jolly Judge

    Deacon Brodies

    The Albanach

    The Mitre

    The Royal Mile Tavern

    The Whiski Bar

    Number 1 High St

    The Tolbooth Tavern

    The Kilderkiln.

    The return journey is

    Cannon's Gait

    The White Horse

    The Worlds End

    Inn on The Mile

    The Royal McGregor

  • Trail 7 - Cowgate

    (dark blue) -

    The Inn on The Mile

    The Tron

    The Advocate

    The City Cafe

    OX184

    Brewdog

    The Three Sisters

    Bannerman's

    Bar 50

    Holyrood 9A

    The Globe

    Whistlebinkies

  • Trail 8 - Southside

    (orange icons)

    Inn on the Mile

    Biblos

    The Royal Oak

    The Whistle Stop

    Brass Monkey

    The Captain's Bar

    The Southsider

    Greenmantle

    McSorley's

    The Dagba

    Pear Tree House

    The Blind Poet

    Andrew Usher & Co

    The Potting Shed

  • Trail 9 - Around Waverley Station

    Out one exit and around to another entrance.

    (light blue icons)

    Half Way House

    Jinglin' Geardie's.

    Scotsman' Lounge

    The Malt Shovel

    The Hebrides

    Belushi's

    The Doric

    The Booking Office

    Guildford Arms

    Cafe Royal

Some Edinburgh and the Borders area Breweries

“I like to have a martini,

Two at the very most.

After three I'm under the table.

After four I'm under the host.

— Dorothy Parker

Other interesting pages

  • Books on Beer

    A selection of recommended books covering all aspects of beer and brewing. There are books on the history of beer and others on different styles of beer.

    For example

    An Inebriated History of Britain by Peter Haydon

    Amber, Gold & Black by Martyn Cornell

    Brew Britannia by Jessica Boak & Ray Bailey

    The Story of the Pint by Martyn Cornell

    Miracle Brew by Pete Brown

    Built to Brew by Lynn Pearson

    And many more

  • Pubs visited by Stevenson & MacKay

    It all begins with an idea. Maybe you want to launch a business. Maybe you want to turn a hobby into something more. Craig Stevenson and John MacKay have used their bus passes to good effect. They have toured the towns and cities of Scotland visiting pubs. They recount their adventures in a series of books:

    The Auldest Boozers in Town

    The Cheap Way Round

    Still Goin’

    Inn Aff The Bar

    Goin’ Roon The Edge

    Mud, Sweat and Beers

    Map
  • Books on Pubs

    A selection of recommended books on pubs and their history. There are books on the social history of pubs and the design of pubs through the ages.

    There are also books on visiting pubs and ones recommending pubs to visit.

    CAMRA’s Good Beer Guide

    Death of the English Pub by Christopher Hutt

    Brewers, Brands and the Pubs in their Hands by Tony Thornton

    Licensed to Sell by Brandwood, Davidson & Slaughter

    And many more

ANSWER: Wyoming