EDINBURGH
Trail 6 - The Royal Mile
Edinburgh is the capital city of Scotland and lies on the East coast on the Firth of Forth. The second highest population in Scotland it is the largest city by area. The city is famous for its architecture and design, both the old town and the new town are World Heritage sites. It has a world famous Castle and hosts the Edinburgh Festival (and Fringe) every year.
The easiest way to get to Edinburgh is by train to Waverley station. There is also the second last station which is Haymarket. These stations are at either end of Princes Street and Haymarket is the stop for Edinburgh's West End
Edinburgh is a large city with many pubs spread over different areas of the town. Rose Street is a very popular drinking trail so I have ignored it and have introduced nine other pub trails based in Edinburgh. There is a short one viewing pubs at the Grassmarket (red icons) and two slightly longer (or one very long) starting at Haymarket station towards Lothian Rd (green icons) or Princes Street to Haymarket (yellow icons) taking in pubs in the West End and Lothian Road triangle.
All of the pubs are highlighted on the map below.
Now added is a trail Around Bread St, (blue icons) linking West End trails to The Grassmarket Trail and a trail going beyond The Grassmarket (purple icons) and finally The Royal Mile (brown icons).
There are also trails in The Cowgate (dark blue icons), heading to The Southside (orange icons) and Around Waverley Station (light Blue Icons)
The Royal Mile
Take a train to Waverley station and leaving by back exit/entrance walk up any hill or steps and hill combined to reach tghe Royal Mile.
Starting at the top and travelling down the left-hand pavement The Royal Mille then returning up the hill on the opposite side - still the left!
The Ensign Ewart, followed by The Jolly Judge, Deacon Brodies, The Albanach, then three next door to each other - The Mitre, The Royal Mile Tavern and The Whiski Bar. Then on to Number 1 High St, The Tolbooth Tavern and finally The Kilderkiln.
First on the return journey is Canon's Gait, then The White Horse, The Worlds End, Inn on The Mile and stopping at The Royal McGregor
Ensign Ewart
Ensign Ewart is a small two roomed pub at the top of the Royal Mile. Low beamed roof and quite dark it has traditional wooden chairs and tables with settles round side. Decoration reflects battle of Waterloo time. Practically empty pub for one so close to the Castle. Code for toilet! Does food
Have one here
real ale : Flying Scotsman; Deuchers; Black Sheep
heavy : Belhaven Best,
lager :Stella; Carlsberg
cider : Magners Guinness
The Jolly Judge ★
The Jolly Judge is a small pub found down a short close which opens out to the pub’s courtyard with outside seating. A few further steps down there is the entrance to a small bar. Seating to the right, servery and some tables to the left. Low ceiling and low light gives a cellar feel to it.
CAMRA Good Beer Guide regular, including 2023, 2024, 2025
Have a pint here.
Real ale; Galaxy burst (Alchemy)
Heavy: Long White Cloud Pale Ale
Lager: St Mungo;
Rosie Pig Cider; Magners Guinness
Deacon Brodies Tavern
Deacon Brodies Tavern (a Nicolson’s house) is an impressive corner bar looking out on The Royal Mile. There is seating to either side of the entrance and along the right hand windows. The servery is to the back left. Food is on offer all day and there is further dining space upstairs. Nicolson’s usual style of dark wood, small tables and fancy gantry.
Have a pint here.
Real ale; Deuchers; Shropshire Gold (Salopian); Stewart’s 80/-; Nilcolson’s Pale Ale; White Witch (Moorhouses) ; Winter Lightning
Lager: Tennent’s; Peroni; Schiehallion; Stella; Carling
Cider: Mortimer Guinness
PLACES TO VISIT WITH PUBTRAILS
The towns and villages highlighted on this web site have a wide variety of pubs and beers in them. All of the places are great to visit, whether for a day or longer, and most have tourist attractions for all of the family.
There is a large variety of pubs throughout the different towns shown below. Some you may wish never to visit again but even discovering these can be interesting. There are pubs that you would not take your wife into. While some you could not take your girlfriend into. A few you would not take either into. However, most of the pubs are very pleasant.
HOME MAP of places visited
Alnwick Ambleside Anstruther Bakewell Bamburgh Barnard Castle Bath Berwick upon Tweed Birnam & Dunkeld Bourton on the Water Bowness on Windermere Bridge of Allan Chester Chichester Dunblane Dunoon Edinburgh Ely Fort William Glasgow Gourock Greenock Helensburgh Inverness Kelso Keswick Knaresbourgh Largs Linlithgow Lyme Regis Melrose Montrose Newton Stewart North Berwick Norwich Oban Pebbles Penzance Portree Pitlochry Quorn Richmond Rothesay St Andrews Seahouses Seend Shrewsbury Skipton Stirling Stratford-upon-Avon Stockton Heath Whitby Windemere Whitstable York
Albanach
Albanach is a small corner bar (Belhaven pub). There is seating either side of the door. There is a fire on the left wall and then the L-shaped bar comes out. Short benches and small tables along right-hand side wall. There is a large dining room through a door at the back of the bar. Outside seating.
Have a pint here.
Real ale; Belhaven IPA; St Andrews; Belhaven 80/- Common (Knops)
Heavy: Belhaven Best;
Lager: Peroni; Tennent’s; Stella; Carling
Cider Strongbow Guinness
The Mitre
The Mitre (Nicolson’s) is an impressive bar looking out on The Royal Mile. There is seating to either side of the entrance. The bar narrows with an L-shaped servery and seating continuing down the left-hand side. At rear is a large dining area. Nicolson’s usual style of dark wood, small tables, mirrors and fancy gantry. Outside seating. Food all day.
Have a pint here.
Real ale; Deuchers; Stewart’s 80/-; Nilcolson’s Pale Ale; Otter Bright; Nutty Black (Thwaites)
Lager: Tennent’s; Peroni; Stella; Carling
Guinness
The Royal Mile Tavern
The Royal Mile Tavern has an attractive frontage. Inside a long wooden floor leading to a bar at the back right. Tall tables to right, small tables to left. Small seating area up a few stairs at the back of the room. Outside seating
Have a pint here.
Real ale; 4 pumps with Edinburgh Castle and Deuchers
Heavy: Royal Mile Gold; Joker ; Caledonia Best
Lager: Leffe; Innes & Gunn Lager; Tennent’s; Estrella
Cuder: Magners Guinness
Whiski Bar
Whiski Bar has small marble cafe like tables and chairs after the entrance. As tables become rectangular and brown the bar starts on the right-hand side. After the bar the room narrows a little and then opens out again with a large back room. This has around the side seating and tables. It also has a large drop-down screen for TV events. Does food all day and music every evening from 9pm. Picture window overlooks Royal Mile. There is outside seating on the Royal Mille. As the name implies it has a proud range of whiskies with recommendations and tasting notes for beginners.
Have a pint here.
Real ale: Deuchers; Edinburgh Castle
Heavy: Caledonian 80/-; Innes & Gunn Original; Caesar Augustus
Lager: Three Hop; 1664; Innes & Gunn; Tennent’s
Rosie Cider Guinness
Number 1 High Street
Number 1 High Street is a small corner pub. The entrance, on the corner, brings a room with bar to left centre. Just left of entrance is a raised are with three tables. Tables and chairs are placed along the right-hand side. There is a back room of 5 tables and 2 booths. Food is served all day.
Have a pint here.
Real ale; Odessay (fallen Brewery); No 1 High St; Deuchers; Black IPA (Stewarts); California Common (Knops)
Heavy: Belhaven Best;
Lager: Tennent’s; Stella; Bud
Rosie Cider Guinness
Pub Quiz
Which state in the United States comes last in alphabetical order?
Answer at foot of page
Tolbooth Tavern
Tolbooth Tavern bills itself as an old Scottish pub. Entrance takes you to a room with the servery occupying the middle of the right-hand side. There is seating around the servery. Further on is a split-level area, for food, reached by a few stairs.
Have a pint here.
Real ale; Deuchers; Flying Scotsman; Bitter Winter
Heavy: Red; McEwan’s 70/-; McEwan’s 80/-
Lager: Three Hops; Fosters; 1664
Strongbow Guinness
The Kilderkin
The Kilderkin is a food serving bar. the servery is against the far wall. Booths are around the window and up the left side wall. There is a second room through to the right beside the end of the servery. This takes you to a small food serving bar and then into a bigger room with booths along the far wall and wooden tables in centre of room.
Have a pint here
real ale: Edinburgh Castle; Holyrood (Stewart); Seventy (Edinburgh)
heavy: Belhaven Best; Coast to Coast
Lager: Fosters; Heineken 3 Hop;
cider: Symonds Founders Murphy’s Stout
Canons’ Gait ★
Canons’ Gait is a bright modern bar/diner. The floor, walls and tables are all light coloured. The chairs are distressed metal. The Servery is stainless steel. All of these reflect the bright lighting scheme. However, it all works well together. 4 pumps and numerous Scottish craft beers in bottle
Have a pint here.
Good Beer Guide 2013
Real ale; American Pale Ale (Sonnets); Timorous Beastie (Stratagem) Bishops farewell (Oakham); 1759 (Stewarts)
Heavy: Caesar Augustus
Lager: Tennent’s; St Mungo
Blackthorn Guinness
The White Horse
The White Horse, styled the oldest bar on the mile, has a small front room and larger back room. The servery is in the very bright and white front room. This has five small tables and stools at the small counter. Now an Oyster and seafood Bar
Have a half pint here.
Heavy: Belhaven Best;
Lager: Stella; West; Estrella; Carling
Symonds Guinness
The Waverley
The Worlds End
The Worlds End is a small bar, made smaller by the left hand side being for food. The right hand side has a small semi-circular servery off of the far wall. There are tables in various corners making good use of the space. Very popular bar.
Have a pint here.
Real ale; Worlds End (Belhaven) Belhaven Black; Belhaven IPA; Odessay (fallen Brewery); No 1 High St; Deuchers; Black IPA (Stewarts); California Common (Knops)
Heavy: Belhaven Best;
Lager: Tennent’s; Stella; Carling; Innes & Gunn Lager
Guinness
Inn On The Mile
Inn On The Mile is set in an impressive old building. A few steps takes you to a terraced entrance door. This leads to a large tall room. The servery and stools are to the left while there are tables and chairs down the right-hand side. In the centre left there are stools and a shelf style high table while centre right are booths. There are two large TV screens that are pulled down when showing sport.
Have a pint here.
Real ale; Deuchers; Flying Scotsman; Bitter & Twisted; The Mile Ale
Heavy: Caledonia Best; Innes & Gunn Original
Lager: Tennent’s; Estrella:; Haverlee; Schiehallion
cider: Magners Guinness
The Copper Still
(was The Royal McGregor) ★
The Royal McGregor, now The Copper Still, was a small narrow bar which widens out a little. It has raised seating at the end. The servery, with stools, is on the middle right with a few tables lining the wall opposite it. There are some tall tables near the entrance. Some seating outside on Royal Mile. Restaurant downstairs
Have a pint here.
Real ale; Dark Island; Corncrake Ale (Orkney
Heavy: Caledonia Best; Innes & Gunn Original
Lager: Tennent’s; Estrella:; Haverlee; Schiehallion
Cider: Magners Guinness
Links for EDINBURGH city centre Pubtrails
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Trail 1 - Princes St to Haymarket
(yellow icons)
The Huxley (formerly Rutland Bar)
Ghillie Dhu
The Angel's Share (formerly Hudsons)
Ryan's Bar
HP Mather.
The Grosvenor
Au Bar
Teuchters
The Voyage of Buck (was Bert's Bar)
Mercat Bar
The Haymarket
Ryries.
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Trail 2 Haymarket to Lothian Rd
(green icons)
This tour of the pubs starts from Haymarket station.
Ryries (Closed)
The Haymarket.
The Jolly Botanist (formerly The Spider's Web)
Diane's Pool Hall.
Monty’s (was Carters Bar)
Thompsons Bar
Lebinskis (Closed)
Innes & Gunn Tap (was The Beer Kitchen)
All Bar One
Shakespeares
Red Squirrel
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Trail 3 - Grassmarket
(red icons)
The Grassmarket contains seven pubs and there is an eighth called the Grassmarket just around the corner.
Biddy Mulligans
Maggie Dickson's Bar
The Last Drop
The White Hart
The Beehive
The Black Bull
Fiddlers Arms
JC Christie & Sons (formerly The Grassmarket)
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Trail 4 - Around Bread St
Walk up the left hand side of Lothian Rd from Princess St and after crossing to small streets start at
The Red Squirrel
Shakespeare.
Innes & Gun Tap (was The Beer Kitchen)
All Bar One.
The Hanging Bat.
The Chanter
Monboddo.
The Footlights
The Blue Blazer
The Dragonfly Cocktail Bar
W.J Christie and Son (called The Grassmarket in trail 3).
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Trail 5 - Beyond Grassmarket
(purple icons)
The Castle Arms
The Bow Bar
Bar Salsa
Oz Bar
Greyfriars Bobby bar
Sandy Bell's
Malone's
The Doctors.
Boteco Do Brazil
Paradise Palms
Frankenstein's
George IV Bar
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Trail 6 - Royal Mile
(Brown icons)
The Ensign Ewart
The Jolly Judge
Deacon Brodies
The Albanach
The Mitre
The Royal Mile Tavern
The Whiski Bar
Number 1 High St
The Tolbooth Tavern
The Kilderkiln.
The return journey is
Cannon's Gait
The White Horse
The Worlds End
Inn on The Mile
The Royal McGregor
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Trail 7 - Cowgate
(dark blue) -
The Inn on The Mile
The Tron
The Advocate
The City Cafe
OX184
Brewdog
The Three Sisters
Bannerman's
Bar 50
Holyrood 9A
The Globe
Whistlebinkies
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Trail 8 - Southside
(orange icons)
Inn on the Mile
Biblos
The Royal Oak
The Whistle Stop
Brass Monkey
The Captain's Bar
The Southsider
Greenmantle
McSorley's
The Dagba
Pear Tree House
The Blind Poet
Andrew Usher & Co
The Potting Shed
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Trail 9 - Around Waverley Station
Out one exit and around to another entrance.
(light blue icons)
Half Way House
Jinglin' Geardie's.
Scotsman' Lounge
The Malt Shovel
The Hebrides
Belushi's
The Doric
The Booking Office
Guildford Arms
Cafe Royal
Other interesting pages
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Books on Beer
A selection of recommended books covering all aspects of beer and brewing. There are books on the history of beer and others on different styles of beer.
For example
An Inebriated History of Britain by Peter Haydon
Amber, Gold & Black by Martyn Cornell
Brew Britannia by Jessica Boak & Ray Bailey
The Story of the Pint by Martyn Cornell
Miracle Brew by Pete Brown
Built to Brew by Lynn Pearson
And many more
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Pubs visited by Stevenson & MacKay
It all begins with an idea. Maybe you want to launch a business. Maybe you want to turn a hobby into something more. Craig Stevenson and John MacKay have used their bus passes to good effect. They have toured the towns and cities of Scotland visiting pubs. They recount their adventures in a series of books:
The Auldest Boozers in Town
The Cheap Way Round
Still Goin’
Inn Aff The Bar
Goin’ Roon The Edge
Mud, Sweat and Beers
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Books on Pubs
A selection of recommended books on pubs and their history. There are books on the social history of pubs and the design of pubs through the ages.
There are also books on visiting pubs and ones recommending pubs to visit.
CAMRA’s Good Beer Guide
Death of the English Pub by Christopher Hutt
Brewers, Brands and the Pubs in their Hands by Tony Thornton
Licensed to Sell by Brandwood, Davidson & Slaughter
And many more
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Who owns your pubs?
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Interesting articles to read
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Who owns your beer?
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Comparing pubs in Scotland with England
ANSWER: Wyoming