EDINBURGH
Trail 8 - SOUTHSIDE
Edinburgh is the capital city of Scotland and lies on the East coast on the Firth of Forth. The second highest population in Scotland it is the largest city by area. The city is famous for its architecture and design, both the old town and the new town are World Heritage sites. It has a world famous Castle and hosts the Edinburgh Festival (and Fringe) every year.
The easiest way to get to Edinburgh is by train to Waverley station. There is also the second last station which is Haymarket. These stations are at either end of Princes Street and Haymarket is the stop for Edinburgh's West End
Edinburgh is a large city with many pubs spread over different areas of the town. Rose Street is a very popular drinking trail so I have ignored it and have introduced nine other pub trails based in Edinburgh. There is a short one viewing pubs at the Grassmarket (red icons) and two slightly longer (or one very long) starting at Haymarket station towards Lothian Rd (green icons) or Princes Street to Haymarket (yellow icons) taking in pubs in the West End and Lothian Road triangle.
All of the pubs are highlighted on the map below.
Now added is a trail Around Bread St, (blue icons) linking West End trails to The Grassmarket Trail and a trail going beyond The Grassmarket (purple icons) and finally The Royal Mile (brown icons).
There are also trails in The Cowgate (dark blue icons), heading to The Southside (orange icons) and around Waverley Station (light Blue Icons)
Head to the Southside - Come out of Waverley St Station and walk up to North Bridge which runs above the station. Walk up the road to reach The Royal Mile (see Royal Mile crawl) and cross over to what is now South Bridge. Walk down a full block passing over The Cowgate.
Come out of Waverley St Station and walk up to North Bridge which runs above the station. Walk up the road to reach The Royal Mile (see Royal Mile crawl) and cross over to what is now South Bridge. Walk down a full block passing over The Cowgate.
Cross over to what is now South Bridge. Walk down a full block passing over The Cowgate (see Cowgate Trail) and reaching Biblos on the next right-hand corner. Cross South Bridge Road and down to the left is The Royal Oak.
Now moving back onto the South Bridge walk on to the next corner on the left. At this corner is Whistle Stop Barber Shop Bar. From here turn left at the corner onto Drummond St and down on the right is Brass Monkey. Return up to South Bridge and follow the road across South Bridge to S College st and on the left is The Captain's Bar. Back to the main road, now called Nicolson St
Continue down for a while taking second left into West Richmond St to The Southsider.
Back onto the main road, the next right-hand corner has Greenmantle. Continue down and on the left-hand side is The Dog House (was MacSorley's Bar). Cross back over and turn right (no car entry) and go down Gifford Park to reach another main road (Buccleuch St) and turn to the right and walk up to The Dagba.
Continue up Buccleuch St which becomes Chapel St, and turn right at the crossroads into West Nicolson St. On this corner is The Pear Tree and next door is The Counting House (was The Dead Poet) and next door again is 32 Below (was Andrew Usher & Co).
Leaving here return to the corner and keep walking on the right (now Potterrow) to reach The Potting Shed. Continue up from here and turn right into Marshall St which will return you to Nicolson St
Continuing straight up the pavement which curves around to the left brings you to Paradise palms and the Beyond The Grassmarket Trail.
Biblos
Biblos is a large modern corner lounge catering for students with deals on food and drink but welcoming everyone. Open to 1am, with live music, every day. There is a large bar with most of the windows look out on Chambers St rather than the main road. The serving counter is to the right. There is an extension room to the right of the servery. Mezzanine seating overlooking main bar area.
have a drink here
Heavy: Belhaven Best
Lager: Peroni; Blue Moon; San Miguel; Carlsberg
Cider: Somersby Guinness
Royal Oak ★
Royal Oak has a small square public bar with serving counter along the far wall. Seating around room plus one tall table in centre. There is a relatively larger lounge bar downstairs. Well known for Folk music there is music every night- open to 2am. Dog friendly Folk Music Club
have a pint here
Real ale: Deuchers; Golden Eye; Wayfarer
Heavy: McEwans 80/-; McEwans 70/-
Light; McEwans 60/-
Lager: Fosters; 1664
Cider Strongbow Guinness
Whistle Stop Barber Shop Bar
Whistle Stop Barber Shop Bar is situated on a corner. It has an American style diner feel with barbershop stools along the bar counter. The entrance takes you the bar counter along the wall to the right and booths up the left-hand wall. Two large booths are opposite the counter and looking out onto the main road. There is tall seating against the windows going down the right-hand wall. Not a lot of space between stools at booths for standing drinking. Decorated with scissors and razors to keep the barbershop theme. Not obviously a bar when walking alongside it, easier to see the word 'bar' from across the street.
Have a pint here
Craft Ale: Caesar Augustus
Bitter/Heavy: Caledonia Best
Lager: Tennent’s; Innes & Gunn
Cider: Addlestone
Brass Monkey
Brass Monkey has an art deco style main bar with the wall lights having fringes as shades. The serving counter does not quite take up the left-hand wall. there is generous standing room between the counter and stools and the wall. The room opens up a little beyond the bar to offer one couch and table. Up a few steps near the back of the room and to the right is a landing which has two rooms off of it. One is a old sitting room with tables and chairs the other, which is dark has one small table at the far end. In between the entrance and the small table both walls are lined with large loungers or small beds. They have no back and have no space between them. If you sit on them, back against the wall, then your feet will not touch the floor.
behind the couch on the far wall, entered by a door at the side is the small toilet which is as close as you can get to ladies and gents sharing without being at home.
Good beer Guide 2020
Have a pint here
Captain’s Bar ★
Captain’s Bar is a small narrow bar. There is some seating to the right by the window. Then the serving counter extends half way down the right-hand wall. This used to go further as indicated by the back gantry continuing on down the wall.
A folk music haven
Have a pint here
Has an entry in “Scotland’s True Heritage Pubs”
Real ale: Deuchers; Drop Kick
Heavy: McEwans 70-; Caledonia
Lager: Fosters; Three Hop
Cider Symmonds Guinness
The Southsider
The Southsider is a two roomed lounge bar offering food and giant TVs which are well advertised in the windows. The entrance takes you to the main room and turning to the left another seating area. The first area has the wooden bar counter against the left side wall. Both rooms have booths on the right-side wall and more conventional seating in middle of room.
Have a half pint here
Real ale: Landlord; Deuchers
Heavy: Caledonia Best
Lager: Stella; Carling; Tennents
Cider: Strongbow Guinness
Greenmantle
Greenmantle is a small corner pub. The small bar counter is to the right and the nicely decorated room extends in front of you. Not very bog it offers food all day and traditional music evenings.
Have a pint here
Real ale: Doom bar; Dirty Rucker; Hobgoblin
Heavy: Punk;
Lager: Coors; St Mungo
Cider Old Rosie; Carling Cider Guinness
The Dog House was called McSorley’s
The Dog House was called McSorley’s (see Beyond The Grassmarket trail for new MacSorley’s)
McSorley’s is a two roomed bar. The serving counter is to the right. It has high tables around the wall. Another room through to left with small tables around padded side seating. Some brick walls and some with old LPs. Offers food and music nights.
Real ale: McSorleys (2 pumps not in use)
Heavy:
Lager: Three Hop; Fosters; Heineken
Cider: Strongbow + Cloudy Apple+ Dark Fruit; Symmonds Guinness
The Dagba ★
The Dagba is a small one roomed bar with U-shaped servery coming out of the far wall. Seating along side walls and front window. Information on beers on blackboard.
Good Beer Guide (CAMRA) regular, including 2023
Have a pint here.
Real ale: Butcombe Bitter; Jeffrey Hudson Bitter (Oakham); Oakham Citra; N2 IPA; Dragba draught
Craft : Black Isle Organic Blond; Caesar Augustus; Edinburgh Gold; Schillhalion,
Heavy: Caledonia Best; Asaroth (Oakham)
Lager: Tennents; Erdinger;
Cider: Black Rat Cider Black Isle Organic Porter
PLACES TO VISIT WITH PUBTRAILS
The towns and villages highlighted on this web site have a wide variety of pubs and beers in them. All of the places are great to visit, whether for a day or longer, and most have tourist attractions for all of the family.
There is a large variety of pubs throughout the different towns shown below. Some you may wish never to visit again but even discovering these can be interesting. There are pubs that you would not take your wife into. While some you could not take your girlfriend into. A few you would not take either into. However, most of the pubs are very pleasant.
HOME MAP of places visited
Alnwick Ambleside Anstruther Bakewell Bamburgh Barnard Castle Bath Berwick upon Tweed Birnam & Dunkeld Bourton on the Water Bowness on Windermere Bridge of Allan Chester Chichester Dunblane Dunoon Edinburgh Ely Fort William Glasgow Gourock Greenock Helensburgh Inverness Kelso Keswick Knaresbourgh Largs Linlithgow Lyme Regis Melrose Montrose Newton Stewart North Berwick Norwich Oban Pebbles Penzance Portree Pitlochry Quorn Richmond Rothesay St Andrews Seahouses Seend Shrewsbury Skipton Stirling Stratford-upon-Avon Stockton Heath Whitby Windemere Whitstable York
The Pear Tree ★
The Pear Tree is a modern pub with a square island bar having seating all around it. Outside is a very large sheltered space with lots of tables and a stage. Variety of seating and tables.
The real ale dispensing does not look like tradition pumps.
Have a pint here
Real ale: Deuchers; Tight Head; Doom bar;
Heavy: Caledonia Best
Lager: Tennent’s; Stella; 1664; Alechemy Orange and Lemon; Citra Burst; Calton Gold; Blue Moon
Cider
The Counting House was called The Blind Poet
The Blind Poet is now The Counting House is a one roomed pub. Servery to the right-hand wall and performance area opposite it. Small tables around stage and longer tables closer to door.
Have a pint here
Real ale: Starlaw; Ten Storey malt (both Alechemy); Deuchers
Heavy: McEwans 80/-;
Lager: Calton Gold; Urquell; Tennents; Coors
Cider Strongbow
32 Below was Andrew Usher & Co
Andrew Usher & Co. is now 32 Below, it had stairs leading to a basement bar with slightly lower level beyond serving area. The rooms have the basement style brick walls
Armchair style stools along the bar with 5 real ale pumps and 15 craft keg. Tables range from small round to large benches via barrels. Some sofas and lots of standing room
Lower back area has blackboard describing ales and window access to viewing the brewing process. Deliberately very basic wooden tables for lots to sit around.
Have a pint(s) here
Real ale: (5) Adam Henson’s Rare Breed (Butcombe) ; The Clas – a Braggot (Celt Experience)
Craft: (15) Clown Juice(Magic Rock) ; Villainous (Magic Rock) ; Holy Cowbell Stout (Ikley) ; Far Skyline (Buxton) ; Vintage; ; Grande Cru; Monumental (Alechemy)
and from Usher themselves Fusion; Mangos; Alderalon; Happy Bruges; Computer Love; La Place du Solely
The Potting Shed
The Potting Shed has a long metal bar counter. Booths and tables beyond this. Wood (and plywood) predominates, most of it distressed. Tables along side window. Variety of seating to go with low and dining tables. Beers advertised on blackboard and not at the pump. Which are real and which are craft keg. Schooners or pints!
Have a pint here
Craft beer:
carbon Copy and carbon Footprint (both from Carbon Smith); Saison de pluies( a farmhouse ale from Stewarts)
Mariana Trench (Weird Beard) ; Great Pacific Hop Patch and Ragnarok (both Fyne Ales) ; House, unfined (Pilot)
Dead Pony Club (Brewdog) Malaca (Alechemy) ; Blood Revenge (Black Metal ) ;T he Clas – a Braggot (Celt Experience)
Ambner ale (Wiper & True) ; Under Current (Siren) ; Armarillo (Tempest) ; Revelry (Cotswold Spring)
Lager: Williams;
Cider: Aspall
Links for EDINBURGH city centre Pubtrails
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Trail 1 - Princes St to Haymarket
(yellow icons)
The Huxley (formerly Rutland Bar)
Ghillie Dhu
The Angel's Share (formerly Hudsons)
Ryan's Bar
HP Mather.
The Grosvenor
Au Bar
Teuchters
The Voyage of Buck (was Bert's Bar)
Mercat Bar
The Haymarket
Ryries.
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Trail 2 Haymarket to Lothian Rd
(green icons)
This tour of the pubs starts from Haymarket station.
Ryries (Closed)
The Haymarket.
The Jolly Botanist (formerly The Spider's Web)
Diane's Pool Hall.
Monty’s (was Carters Bar)
Thompsons Bar
Lebinskis (Closed)
Innes & Gunn Tap (was The Beer Kitchen)
All Bar One
Shakespeares
Red Squirrel
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Trail 3 - Grassmarket
(red icons)
The Grassmarket contains seven pubs and there is an eighth called the Grassmarket just around the corner.
Biddy Mulligans
Maggie Dickson's Bar
The Last Drop
The White Hart
The Beehive
The Black Bull
Fiddlers Arms
JC Christie & Sons (formerly The Grassmarket)
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Trail 4 - Around Bread St
Walk up the left hand side of Lothian Rd from Princess St and after crossing to small streets start at
The Red Squirrel
Shakespeare.
Innes & Gun Tap (was The Beer Kitchen)
All Bar One.
The Hanging Bat.
The Chanter
Monboddo.
The Footlights
The Blue Blazer
The Dragonfly Cocktail Bar
W.J Christie and Son (called The Grassmarket in trail 3).
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Trail 5 - Beyond Grassmarket
(purple icons)
The Castle Arms
The Bow Bar
Bar Salsa
Oz Bar
Greyfriars Bobby bar
Sandy Bell's
Malone's
The Doctors.
Boteco Do Brazil
Paradise Palms
Frankenstein's
George IV Bar
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Trail 6 - Royal Mile
(Brown icons)
The Ensign Ewart
The Jolly Judge
Deacon Brodies
The Albanach
The Mitre
The Royal Mile Tavern
The Whiski Bar
Number 1 High St
The Tolbooth Tavern
The Kilderkiln.
The return journey is
Cannon's Gait
The White Horse
The Worlds End
Inn on The Mile
The Royal McGregor
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Trail 7 - Cowgate
(dark blue) -
The Inn on The Mile
The Tron
The Advocate
The City Cafe
OX184
Brewdog
The Three Sisters
Bannerman's
Bar 50
Holyrood 9A
The Globe
Whistlebinkies
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Trail 8 - Southside
(orange icons)
Inn on the Mile
Biblos
The Royal Oak
The Whistle Stop
Brass Monkey
The Captain's Bar
The Southsider
Greenmantle
McSorley's
The Dagba
Pear Tree House
The Blind Poet
Andrew Usher & Co
The Potting Shed
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Trail 9 - Around Waverley Station
Out one exit and around to another entrance.
(light blue icons)
Half Way House
Jinglin' Geardie's.
Scotsman' Lounge
The Malt Shovel
The Hebrides
Belushi's
The Doric
The Booking Office
Guildford Arms
Cafe Royal
Other large places with multiple trails
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CHESTER
Five trails
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CHICHESTER
Two trails
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GLASGOW
14 trails
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WHITBY
Four trails
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YORK
Five trails
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NORWICH
Three trails
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WHITSTABLE
Two trails
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INVERNESS
Three trails
Other interesting pages
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Books on Beer
A selection of recommended books covering all aspects of beer and brewing. There are books on the history of beer and others on different styles of beer.
For example
An Inebriated History of Britain by Peter Haydon
Amber, Gold & Black by Martyn Cornell
Brew Britannia by Jessica Boak & Ray Bailey
The Story of the Pint by Martyn Cornell
Miracle Brew by Pete Brown
Built to Brew by Lynn Pearson
And many more
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Pubs visited by Stevenson & MacKay
Craig Stevenson and John MacKay have used their bus passes to good effect. They have toured the towns and cities of Scotland visiting pubs. They recount their adventures in a series of books:
The Auldest Boozers in Town
The Cheap Way Round
Still Goin’
Inn Aff The Bar
Goin’ Roon The Edge
Mud, Sweat and Beers
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Books on Pubs
A variety of books looking at the development of public houses.A selection of recommended books on pubs and their history. There are books on the social history of pubs and the design of pubs through the ages.
There are also books on visiting pubs and ones recommending pubs to visit.
CAMRA’s Good Beer Guide
Death of the English Pub by Christopher Hutt
Brewers, Brands and the Pubs in their Hands by Tony Thornton
Licensed to Sell by Brandwood, Davidson & Slaughter
And many more
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Who owns your pubs?
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Interesting articles to read
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Who owns your beer?
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Comparing pubs in Scotland with England
ANSWER: Canada