EDINBURGH

Trail 3 - The Grassmarket

Edinburgh is the capital city of Scotland and lies on the East coast on the Firth of Forth. The second highest population in Scotland it is the largest city by area. The city is famous for its architecture and design, both the old town and the new town are World Heritage sites. It has a world famous Castle and hosts the Edinburgh Festival (and Fringe) every year.

The easiest way to get to Edinburgh is by train to Waverley station. There is also the second last station which is Haymarket. These stations are at either end of Princes Street and Haymarket is the stop for Edinburgh's West End

 Edinburgh is a large city with many pubs spread over different areas of the town. Rose Street is a very popular drinking trail so I have ignored it and have introduced nine other pub trails based in Edinburgh. There is a short one viewing pubs at the Grassmarket (red icons) and two slightly longer (or one very long) starting at Haymarket station towards Lothian Rd (green icons) or Princes Street to Haymarket (yellow icons) taking in pubs in the West End and Lothian Road triangle.

All of the pubs are highlighted on the map below.

Now added is a trail Around Bread St (blue icons), linking West End trails to The Grassmarket Trail and a trail going Beyond The Grassmarket (purple icons) and finally The Royal Mile (brown icons).

There are also trails in The Cowgate (dark blue icons), heading to The Southside (orange icons) and Around Waverley Station (light Blue Icons)

The Grassmarket contains seven pubs (red icons) and there was an eighth called the WC Christie’s just around the corner but it is now a cocktail bar called 52 Canoes Tiki Den, (black icon). It can be replaced with Cold Town House (orange icon).

 They are, starting from the top and all running down the right-hand side, Biddy Mulligans, Maggie Dickson's Bar, The Last Drop, The White Hart, The Beehive, and The Black Bull. Along the foot of the Grassmarket is The Fiddlers Arms and around the corner from there and up a little was the JC Christie’s (which was Grassmarket Pub).

Most of these pubs sell real ale, most have outside seating, most have life music most nights and most do food all day - some do all of these.

Pub Facts

 

A place this size is bound to have its own guides to illustrate the vast quantity, quality and styles of pubs.

CAMRA in Edinburgh

Many of the pubs do serve real ale and while a lot of pubs offer a choice of real ale some only offer one which is inevitably Deuchers. Quite often these pubs are only playing at selling real ale and the Deuchers is not as tasty as it can be.

 

Practically every pub offers food at lunch or all day

 Biddy Mulligans

Biddy Mulligans has the distressed look expected from Irish named pubs. Larger than it looks from outside, a round serving bar awaits inside the entrance. Around the other side it opens up to reveal a larger seated are and beyond that another swerving counter. Food, outside seating and music. Also aimed a sports TV fans.

Have a pint here

real ale    : Deuchars

heavy       : Caledonia Best

lager         : Tennent's, Starapramen

cider         :                                            Guinness

Pub Jukebox:

Alcohol themed music to listen to while you browse.

speyside whisky song - Robin Laing

 Maggie Dickson's Pub

Maggie Dickson's Pub is called after a lady who survived hanging in the Grassmarket. Good sized serving area in a small uninspiring bar. Serves food all day and has outside seating

heavy        :

lager         :Tennent's

cider         : Strongbow                                                  Guinness

The Last Drop ★

 The Last Drop is a bit smaller and cramped than looks from the outside. However, it is a pleasant and popular pub. It has a good atmosphere despite being near where the gallows were (or maybe because of it!), A Nilcolson's pub.

Have a pint here

real ale    : Deuchers, Stewart's 80/-

heavy       : Caledonia Best

lager         :Tennent's, Peroni, San Miguel

cider         : Strongbow                                              Guinness

The White Hart 

The White Hart is a tradition style one roomed bar with a worm feel. Food, music and outside seating. It has a claim to be the city's oldest pub.

Visited by The Auldest Boozers in Toon - books

Have pint here

real ale     :Belhaven IPA, Belhaven 80/-

heavy        :Belhaven Best

lager         :Tennent's, Peroni, Carling

cider         :Thistly Cross, Strongbow                                                                                        

                                                     Guinness, Belhaven Black Stout

 The Beehive

The Beehive is now part of Belhaven. It has three large rooms for sitting and eating with a variety of table sizes. Not a lot of standing room. garden and out-front seating. Food all day. Beer Garden

Good Beer Guide (CAMRA) 2013, 2016

Have pint here

real ale     : Flying Scotsman,  Deuchers, Dark Moor and Red Smithy   (both Kelburn)

lager         : Schiehallion, Black Stella, Peroni, 1664, Carling

cider         : Aspall                                                Guinness

Pub Quiz

Why did Henry Ford only offer cars in black?

Answer at foot of page

 The Black Bull

The Black Bull a long wide pub which gets wider after the bar. At front there is a lower seating area then stairs up to the serving area. Food all day, outside seating and regular music nights.

Have one here

real ale     : Holy Cow (Borders), Thrappledance, Deuchers,   Stewart's 80/-, Bitter & Twisted

heavy        : Caledonian Best, Belhaven Best

lager         : 1664, Carling, Heineken, San Miguel, Coors, Grolsch 

cider         : Strongbow, Magners                                                 Guinness

PLACES TO VISIT WITH PUBTRAILS

 The towns and villages highlighted on this web site have a wide variety of pubs and beers in them.  All of the places are great to visit, whether for a day or longer, and most have tourist attractions for all of the family.

There is a large variety of pubs throughout the different towns shown below. Some you may wish never to visit again but even discovering these can be interesting. There are pubs that you would not take your wife into. While some you could not take your girlfriend into. A few you would not take either into. However, most of the pubs are very pleasant.

HOME MAP of places visited

Alnwick Ambleside Anstruther Bakewell Bamburgh Barnard Castle Bath Berwick upon Tweed Birnam & Dunkeld Bourton on the Water Bowness on Windermere Bridge of Allan Chester Chichester Dunblane Dunoon Edinburgh Ely Fort William Glasgow Gourock Greenock                   Helensburgh Inverness Kelso Keswick Knaresbourgh Largs Linlithgow Lyme Regis Melrose Montrose Newton Stewart North Berwick Norwich Oban Pebbles Penzance Portree Pitlochry Quorn Richmond Rothesay St Andrews Seahouses Seend Shrewsbury Skipton Stirling Stratford-upon-Avon Stockton Heath Whitby Windemere Whitstable York

 The Fiddler's Arms

The Fiddler's Arms is a small bar with an old traditional look inside but with large windows for viewing the Grassmarket. Music most nights and food all day. Some seating outside by the road.

Have a pint here

real ale    : Deuchers

heavy       : Caledonia best, Bitter & Twisted

lager         :Tennent's, Stella, Tennent's Export

cider         : Magners                                    Guinness

 Now a restaurant (was W.J. Christies; before that The Grassmarket

W.J. Christies CLOSED (formerly The Grassmarket Bar) is a one roomed pub just off of the Grassmarket. It has large communal tables which are great when quiet but when busy you cannot pick your neighbours.

RENAMED W J Christie & Sons

Have half pint here

real ale     : pump not in use

heavy        : McEwan's 70/-

lager         : Heineken, 1664, Fosters

 cider        : Strongbow                                                 Guinness

Links for EDINBURGH city centre Pubtrails

  • Trail 1 - Princes St to Haymarket

    (yellow icons)

    The Huxley (formerly Rutland Bar)

    Ghillie Dhu

    The Angel's Share (formerly Hudsons)

    Ryan's Bar

    HP Mather.

    The Grosvenor

    Au Bar

    Teuchters

    The Voyage of Buck (was Bert's Bar)

    Mercat Bar

    The Haymarket

    Ryries.

  • Trail 2 Haymarket to Lothian Rd

    (green icons)

    This tour of the pubs starts from Haymarket station.

    Ryries (Closed)

    The Haymarket.

    The Jolly Botanist (formerly The Spider's Web)

    Diane's Pool Hall.

    Monty’s (was Carters Bar)

    Thompsons Bar

    Lebinskis (Closed)

    Innes & Gunn Tap (was The Beer Kitchen)

    All Bar One

    Shakespeares

    Red Squirrel

  • Trail 3 - Grassmarket

    (red icons)

    The Grassmarket contains seven pubs and there is an eighth called the Grassmarket just around the corner.

    Biddy Mulligans

    Maggie Dickson's Bar

    The Last Drop

    The White Hart

    The Beehive

    The Black Bull

    Fiddlers Arms

    JC Christie & Sons (formerly The Grassmarket)

  • Trail 4 - Around Bread St

    Walk up the left hand side of Lothian Rd from Princess St and after crossing to small streets start at

    The Red Squirrel

    Shakespeare.

    Innes & Gun Tap (was The Beer Kitchen)

    All Bar One.

    The Hanging Bat.

    The Chanter

    Monboddo.

    The Footlights

    The Blue Blazer

    The Dragonfly Cocktail Bar

    W.J Christie and Son (called The Grassmarket in trail 3).

  • Trail 5 - Beyond Grassmarket

    (purple icons)

    The Castle Arms

    The Bow Bar

    Bar Salsa

    Oz Bar

    Greyfriars Bobby bar

    Sandy Bell's

    Malone's

    The Doctors.

    Boteco Do Brazil

    Paradise Palms

    Frankenstein's

    George IV Bar

  • Trail 6 - Royal Mile

    (Brown icons)

    The Ensign Ewart

    The Jolly Judge

    Deacon Brodies

    The Albanach

    The Mitre

    The Royal Mile Tavern

    The Whiski Bar

    Number 1 High St

    The Tolbooth Tavern

    The Kilderkiln.

    The return journey is

    Cannon's Gait

    The White Horse

    The Worlds End

    Inn on The Mile

    The Royal McGregor

  • Trail 7 - Cowgate

    (dark blue) -

    The Inn on The Mile

    The Tron

    The Advocate

    The City Cafe

    OX184

    Brewdog

    The Three Sisters

    Bannerman's

    Bar 50

    Holyrood 9A

    The Globe

    Whistlebinkies

  • Trail 8 - Southside

    (orange icons)

    Inn on the Mile

    Biblos

    The Royal Oak

    The Whistle Stop

    Brass Monkey

    The Captain's Bar

    The Southsider

    Greenmantle

    McSorley's

    The Dagba

    Pear Tree House

    The Blind Poet

    Andrew Usher & Co

    The Potting Shed

  • Trail 9 - Around Waverley Station

    Out one exit and around to another entrance.

    (light blue icons)

    Half Way House

    Jinglin' Geardie's.

    Scotsman' Lounge

    The Malt Shovel

    The Hebrides

    Belushi's

    The Doric

    The Booking Office

    Guildford Arms

    Cafe Royal

Some Edinburgh and the Borders area Breweries

“I love to sing and I love to drink scotch. Most people would rather hear me drink scotch.

 

.”

— George Burns

Other interesting pages

  • Books on Beer

    A selection of recommended books covering all aspects of beer and brewing. There are books on the history of beer and others on different styles of beer.

    For example

    An Inebriated History of Britain by Peter Haydon

    Amber, Gold & Black by Martyn Cornell

    Brew Britannia by Jessica Boak & Ray Bailey

    The Story of the Pint by Martyn Cornell

    Miracle Brew by Pete Brown

    Built to Brew by Lynn Pearson

    And many more

  • Pubs visited by Stevenson & MacKay

    Craig Stevenson and John MacKay have used their bus passes to good effect. They have toured the towns and cities of Scotland visiting pubs. They recount their adventures in a series of books:

    The Auldest Boozers in Town

    The Cheap Way Round

    Still Goin’

    Inn Aff The Bar

    Goin’ Roon The Edge

    Mud, Sweat and Beers

    MAP
  • Books on Pubs

    A selection of recommended books on pubs and their history. There are books on the social history of pubs and the design of pubs through the ages.

    There are also books on visiting pubs and ones recommending pubs to visit.

    CAMRA’s Good Beer Guide

    Death of the English Pub by Christopher Hutt

    Brewers, Brands and the Pubs in their Hands by Tony Thornton

    Licensed to Sell by Brandwood, Davidson & Slaughter

    And many more

Answer: It was the only colour to dry quick enough to keep up with the assembly line