Edinburgh is the capital city of Scotland and lies on the East coast on the Firth of Forth. The second highest population in Scotland it is the largest city by area. The city is famous for its architecture and design, both the old town and the new town are World Heritage sites. It has a world famous Castle and hosts the Edinburgh Festival (and Fringe) every year.

The easiest way to get to Edinburgh is by train to Waverley station. There is also the second last station which is Haymarket. These stations are at either end of Princes Street and Haymarket is the stop for Edinburgh's West End

 At the top of the Royal Mile there is a roundabout leading off the Royal Mile to Johnston Terrace which has The Castle Arms pub. Exit this pub from its downstairs door onto a balcony which overlooks The Bow Bar. Walk along the balcony and down a flight of stairs to West Bow to reach The Bow Bar. Leaving here walk down hill and go round to the left rather than join The Grassmarket Trail.

Going round to the left you see Bar Salsa across the street. After here walk up the hill towards the Candlemarket. This takes you past a corner pub Oz Bar After Oz Bar continue walking up the hill to find the Greyfriars Bobby bar. Continue up this road keeping to the right to go round the corner and as you walk along find, on a corner, the small but nice, Sandy Bell's. Across the road from here is Malone's. then walk on to the next corner where there is The Doctors.

Continue round the corner at The Doctors and walk down the street, crossing at Bristo Place, and at the next corner are Boteco Do Brazil and Paradise Palms.

Return to Bristo Place and turn right along it and this will take you back past Greyfriars Bobby. Crossing the road just beyond the statue is a church converted to Frankenstein's and then cross the road for George IV Bar by the bridge part of the road.

 The Castle Arms is a large busy bar offering food and good beer. Although an old pub the layout and decor have a modern feel. It has an attractive downstairs outside area on a terrace.

Featured in Bob Steel's Edinburgh Pub Walks

Have a pint here

real ale    : Deuchers, Pumpkin Ale, Edinburgh No3, Copper Cascade (all Stewarts)

 heavy       : Belhaven Best

lager         :Stella, Tennent’s, Lieff, Carling,

cider         : Magners; Stowford Press                                           Guinness

The Bow Bar is a one roomed drinking bar. bar at back right. Seating at front windows and left-hand side. Entertainment is talking as there is no Tv or music. Lots of malts

Featured in Bob Steel's Edinburgh Pub Walks

Regular in Good Beer Guide (CAMRA) - 2022, 2025

Scottish Licensed Trade News Award “Best Craft Beer Bar” 2022 (sponsored Molson Coors)

Have pint here

real ale     : No3 (Llowhammer);  Pentland; Edinburgh Pale Ale;    October Zest; Muldoon Octoberfest; Grapevine Tryst (Fallen  Brewery)

heavy        : Belhaven Best; Joker IPA

lager         : Fustenberg

 cider                                                         Guinness

Bar Salsa is another a small one roomed pub with little to attract it except very cheap drink. These prices are not Edinburgh prices. There is nothing remotely dance like or South American in here. Not very welcoming, not attractive - you get what you don't pay for.

Outside seating by road.

A must for a half pint

heavy          :Bellhaven Best

lager           :Tennent’s;  Carlsberg

cider           : Magners                                     Guinness

Oz Bar -  Australian of course. Wooden tables, floor, seats etc. Lots of seating and lots of standing area. Pool is very popular. Actually, has some Australia product. A popular and friendly venue.

Have a half pint here

heavy        : Belhaven Best

lager         :Carlsberg;  Staroperamen; Tennent’s

cider         : Somerset Cider                           Guinness

Greyfrair's Bobby is part of the Nicolson's chain. Bar is straight in the door and has some seating for those waiting for a meal – up a few steps to the dining area. Small seating area for drinkers to the right. Not a lot of room for standing at the bar for any length of time. Seating outside on large pavement area

Have a pint here

real ale    : Deuchers;  Dragonhead;  Nicolson’s Pale Ale; Viking Ale    (Loch Lomond); Prophecy (Bath)

heavy       :

lager         :San Miguel; Tennent’s;  Peroni; Carling;

cider         : Aspinal                                           Guinness

Sandy Bell's is small and narrow bar partially split in two by small screen and archway. Very traditional old pub. A centre for Folk music in Edinburgh. Can get busy but service is always good.

Featured in Bob Steel's Edinburgh Pub Walks - books

One of Scotland's Heritage pubs - CAMRA - books

Good Beer Guide 2023

Have one here

real ale     : Bitter & Twisted; Red MacGregor;  Ossian

heavy        : Caledonian Best;  McEwan’s Export

lager         :Tennent’s;  Bud

cider         : Addlestone Cloudy                   Guinness

Malones now McSorley’s Irish bar is an obviously Irish pub with the usual Irish decor. It set in an old church which makes a good and large music venue. Live music most nights.

The bar has a dormitory hostel above it.

Have a pint here

heavy           :Belhaven Best; Deuchers

lager            :Bud; Tennent’s;  Staroperaman; Heiniken;  Innes & Gunn Lager beer

cider             :Magners                                    Guinness

The Doctors was a Taylor Walker pub making a good attempt at traditional pub venue though not quite losing the gastropub chain feel.  Attractively set out it is popular for food and quite busy A lot of of push and shove at the bar. Thought at prices you need to sit down for. Now a Belhaven pub so prices should have improved.

Featured in Bob Steel's Edinburgh Pub Walks - books

Have pint here

real ale    :Vital Spark;  Barney’s;   Junction (Sambrookes); Flying    Scotsman; Peter’s Well; Schiehallion

lager        :Carling; Staroperamen;  Tennent’s; Stella

 cider        :Aspall                                                 Guinness

Bateco Do Brazil has a large outside seating area. Inside is a dining-cocktail bar. The small servery is immediately to the right. This has some seating opposite it. Beyond this front area is a larger dining area with booths on the left

Have a half pint

Lager:                    Brahma; Hoegarden; Amstel;

Cider:     Strongbow                                          Guinness

Paradise Palms right next door, also has a large outside seating area. There is some seating immediately inside the door then stairs down to the right and a long tall serving counter along the left-hand wall. opposite the servery counter is a dark area with lots of small intimate round tables. Hanging above the bar counter are hundreds of cuddly toys and what seems like the start of a collection of cameras hanging down. The low ceiling also has Hawaiian shirts stabled to it. An interesting bar with lots going on in it.

It is also a record store and record label, and runs all sorts of events from book clubs to bingo, Poetry nights to Date nights

Have a pint

Craft Ale:             Yardbird

Lager:    West Hefeweizen;  St Mungo;  Black Isle Organic;     Estrella; Tennent’s

Cider:    Addlestone’s Cloudy

Frankenstein's is a converted church which is very dark and lit by lanterns to simulate the professor's lab. With a basement and upstairs bar there is plenty of drinking spaces. The upstairs 'pew' area looks down on the main bar and drinking space. This has booth style tables against opposite wall and tall tables in centre of room.

Large screen shows films including horror evenings. The 'Monster' visits daily.

Have a pint here

Real ale:      Deuchers;  Flying Scotsman   

lager         Tennent’s; Heineken; Fosters;  Frankenstein's lager ;  1664 

cider             Strongbow

The George IV Bar is by a bridge so has windows to the front and along the left-hand wall looking down on the road below. It has entrance doors to the right and left taking you into two different long narrow rooms linked at the top. The left-hand door has a small bar to the right and dining style tables along the window overlooking The Cowgate below. Beyond this area is the one linking the two rooms which has a mixture of seating and table styles.

The right-hand entrance door takes you to a narrow room with a long bar counter to the left and tall tables down the right-hand side. The decor is highly polished brown wood with ornately corniced ceiling and with lots of mirrors and pictures on all the walls. Altogether a very attractive bar.

There is also outside seating along the front of the bar.

Have a pint here.

Craft Ale:             Joker;  Coast To Coast

Bitter/Heavy:     Caledonia Best

Lager:                    Heverlee; Tennent’s; 3 Hop;  13 Hop

Cider:                    Magners                              Guinness