EDINBURGH
Trail 1 - Princess St to Haymarket
Edinburgh is the capital city of Scotland and lies on the East coast on the Firth of Forth. The second highest population in Scotland it is the largest city by area. The city is famous for its architecture and design, both the old town and the new town are World Heritage sites. It has a world famous Castle and hosts the Edinburgh Festival (and Fringe) every year.
The easiest way to get to Edinburgh is by train to Waverley station. There is also the second last station which is Haymarket. These stations are at either end of Princes Street and Haymarket is the stop for Edinburgh's West End
Edinburgh is a large city with many pubs spread over different areas of the town. Rose Street is a very popular drinking trail so I have ignored it and have introduced nine other pub trails based in Edinburgh. There is a short one viewing pubs at the Grassmarket (red icons) and two slightly longer (or one very long) starting at Haymarket station towards Lothian Rd (green icons) or Princes Street to Haymarket (yellow icons) taking in pubs in the West End and Lothian Road triangle.
All of the pubs are highlighted on the map below.
Now added is a trail, About Bread St (blue icons) linking West End trails to The Grassmarket Trail and a trail going Beyond The Grassmarket (purple icons) and finally The Royal Mile (brown icons).
There are also trails in The Cowgate (dark blue icons), heading to The Southside (orange icons) and Around Waverley Station (light Blue Icons)
Princes St to Haymarket Station (yellow icons)
Take a train to Waverley station and walk through the Princes Street Gardens to reach the end of Princes Street and the start of the West End.
At this end of Princes Street there is a junction of five roads and there several bars to visit. After leaving the gardens reach the corner and cross Lothian Road. On the opposite corner is the Huxley (formerly Rutland Bar) and to the right of it, in a converted church, is The Ghillie Dhu. The street is now Shandwick Place.
Looking across the road and to the right there are two roads intersecting together - Hope Street to the right and Queensferry St to the left - with the start of Shandwick Place. The Angel’s Share (formerly Hudsons) is on the Hope Street (right hand street), Ryan's Bar at the apex of the junction and across Broughton St (the left road) from Ryan's is HP Mather.
These first five bars are also the last five of trail 2. This makes it possible to link these two together into one long trail.
Around the corner and walking down Shandwick Place is The Grosvenor and back over on the left at a corner is The Fox and Faun (formerly Au Bar)
You are now in a large impressive crescent called Coates Crescent. Back track a little to the side road across Shandwick Place from the Au Bar. This is called Stafford St. Walk up this and take the first left into William St. Along here, opposite one another, are Teuchters and The Voyage of Buck (was Bert's Bar). Continue along William Street and turn left and walk back down to the middle of Coates Crescent.
There is now a short walk to the Mercat Bar still on the right-hand pavement and then, finally, on the opposite side of the road is The Haymarket. On the opposite junction, beside the station, is Ryries
These last two bars are also the first two of trail 2. This makes it possible to link these together into one long trail.
The Huxley
(formerly The Rutland)
The Huxley (formerly Rutland Bar) is a well designed curved room with booths and variety of styles of tables and chairs. Lots of tables for two. Music and lighting to relax to. Large windows to people watch at this busy junction. Food served.
Have a half pint here
heavy :Deuchars, Bitter & twisted, Caledonia Best, Belhaven Best
lager :Schiehallion,, Birra Moretta, Heineken, Carling, St Mungos
cider : Strongbow Guinness
Ghillie Dhu
Ghillie Dhu is a converted church which has been floored to have a large function/band room upstairs and a large (church sized) 'public bar' at street level. There is a long serving area with plenty of standing room and long tall tables. Beyond that is a large seating/dining area, raised up a few steps, where music is also performed during the evening. Behind the bar there are further booths for four or snugs for bigger parties. The booths can be served through small hatches in the back bar. Food served.
Have a pint here
real ale : Deuchars, Gillie Ale
heavy :Caledonia Best
lager :Tennent's, Starapramen
cider : Magners Guinness
Pub Jukebox:
Alcohol themed music to listen to while you browse.
whisky rock ‘n’ roller - Lynyrd Skynyrd
The Angel's Share
The Angel's Share (formerly Hudsons) is the bar of a hotel. It is modern and very shiny. Low lights, low music and dining tables for two. Food served.
Have a half pint here
heavy :Innes & Gunn, (only by the half pint), Belhaven Best,
lager :Carlsberg, San Miguel, Heineken
cider : Strongbow Guinness
Ryan's ★
Ryan's is a large round bar on a junction corner. It has a high ornate ceiling. There is a restaurant downstairs and a coffee bar in the right-hand curve. Lots of tables close together (small & round seating 4 to give a cafe feel) and not a lot of standing room except at the bar. Outside seating along the road. Serves food.
Have one here
real ale : Old speckled Hen, Deuchars, Bitter & Twisted, Stewarts 80/-
heavy : Innes & Gunn, Belhaven Best
lager :Tennent's, 1664, Carling, Heineken, Stella, Blue Moon,
Peroni
cider : Strongbow Guinness
H P Mather ★
HP Mathers is an old style bar which has retained its old bar charm - mainly men; some drunks; lots of chatter; three different sports on TV; a wooden floor where it is impossible to see the planks. The tall mirrored back gantry is great.
One of Scotland's Heritage pubs
Featured in Bob Steel's Edinburgh Pub Walks
Have a pint here
real ale : 6X, Deuchers, Flying Scotsman, West End cask
heavy : Belhaven best,, McEwan's 70/-. John Smiths
lager :Tennent's, Stella, Carlsberg
cider : Strongbow Guinness
The Grosvenor
The Grosvenor serving area to the left is long and the drinking space narrow. To the right is a larger seating area with booths and tables.
Have a half pint here
real ale : Deuchers
heavy : Caledonia best,
lager :Tennent's, Stella, 1664, Peroni, Stella Black
cider : Aspall , Weston'sWyld Wood real cider Guinness
Au Bar (now The Fox and Faun)
Au Bar (think chemical symbols!) ( now called The Fox and Faun). This is a long bar with seat & drinking area at front with serving bar. Beyond this is more for dining and then doors to beer garden.
Have one here
real ale : Bitter & Twisted, Golden Amber, Foxy Blonde
heavy : Caledonian Best
lager : Tennents, Stella, Strap
cider : Brother's Pear Guinness
Teuchters
Teuchters is a two room pub opened up. lots of seating and standing in front part where the attractive bar is. Further seating through to rear. Helpful staff. Gets packed
Featured in Bob Steel's Edinburgh Pub Walks
The Good Beer Guide (CAMRA) regular, including 2023, 2024
Have more here
real ale : Deuchars, Red Rocker (Cromatory Brewery), Jarl, Landlord, Dark Munro
heavy :Innis & Gunn Oak Aged, Belhaven Best, Brew Dog Punk
lager : Amstel, Black Isle, Peroni, Weihenstephen, West 4
cider :Magners, Blackthorn Guinness
The Voyage of Buck (was Bert’s Bar)
Bert's Bar (now called The Voyage of Buck) has tables to the left and then a thin bar with not much standing room. To the right is a large open room with seating. Staff were great. Gets busy.
Featured in Bob Steel's Edinburgh Pub Walks
Have more here
real ale : Deuchars, Stewart Zymic, Mellow Yellow, Landlord, Red Smiddy, William's Red, Schielhallion
heavy :Joker, Caledonian Best
lager : Tennent's, Stella Black
cider :Magners, Blackthorn Guinness
Mercat
Mercat Bar is a small bar/diner successfully trying for the intimate style - Mood music and lighting, and large TV. Attracts the premium lager drinkers. Not much room at bar. It has a whisky bar and more tables downstairs.
Have half pint here
real ale : Deuchers
heavy : Belhaven Best
lager : Tennent's, Stella, West 4, Kozel, Cruzcampo
cider : Aspall Guinness
The Haymarket
The Haymarket is a large pub set on the apex of a Y-junction which gives it a more interesting shape inside. It is a Nicolson's pub - one of 7 in the city. There is a lot of room in it but it can be crowded at the bar. 12 pumps of real ale were available. There is more seating upstairs
Have a pint here
real ale : Deuchars, Jack Black, Nicolson's Pale Ale, Carte Noir, Black Swan, Topaz Gold, Junga, 80/- Stewart
heavy : John Smith, McEwan's 70/-
lager : Tennent's, Carling, Peroni, San Miguel
cider : Aspall Guinness
Ryries
Ryries Bar has recently reopened after refurbishment and is just outside Haymarket station. There is a long bar with a smaller sitting room beyond. Six pumps but only one on to sell real ale. Fridges were bare and some lager was off. It has an attractive public bar feel. Entrance doors a bit cramped, especially if smokers there.
Featured in Bob Steel's Edinburgh Pub Walks
One of Scotland's Heritage Pubs - CAMRA
CAMRA Good Beer Guide 2024, 2025
Have one here
real ale :Orkney Best (Swanney); You Shall Not Pass (Loch Lomond); Man O’Hoy (Orkney); Hurricane Jack (Fyne Ales); Landlord; Dark Island (Orkney)
Heavy/Pale Ale :Preserve; Local Motive ; Session IPA (Stewart); Happy Chappy (Cromatory); Caledonia Best
Lager :Leith pils; Staroperaman; Estrella; Tennent’s
Cider :Strongbow Guinness
Links for EDINBURGH city centre Pubtrails
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Trail 1 - Princes St to Haymarket
(yellow icons)
The Huxley (formerly Rutland Bar)
Ghillie Dhu
The Angel's Share (formerly Hudsons)
Ryan's Bar
HP Mather.
The Grosvenor
Au Bar
Teuchters
The Voyage of Buck (was Bert's Bar)
Mercat Bar
The Haymarket
Ryries.
-
Trail 2 Haymarket to Lothian Rd
(green icons)
This tour of the pubs starts from Haymarket station.
Ryries
The Haymarket.
The Jolly Botanist (formerly The Spider's Web)
Diane's Pool Hall.
Monty’s (was Carters Bar)
Thompsons Bar
Lebinskis (Closed)
Innes & Gunn Tap (was The Beer Kitchen)
All Bar One
Shakespeares
Red Squirrel
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Trail 3 - Grassmarket
(red icons)
The Grassmarket contains seven pubs and there is an eighth called the Grassmarket just around the corner.
Biddy Mulligans
Maggie Dickson's Bar
The Last Drop
The White Hart
The Beehive
The Black Bull
Fiddlers Arms
JC Christie & Sons (formerly The Grassmarket)
-
Trail 4 - Around Bread St
Walk up the left hand side of Lothian Rd from Princess St and after crossing to small streets start at
The Red Squirrel
Shakespeare.
Innes & Gun Tap (was The Beer Kitchen)
All Bar One.
The Hanging Bat.
The Chanter
Monboddo.
The Footlights
The Blue Blazer
The Dragonfly Cocktail Bar
W.J Christie and Son (called The Grassmarket in trail 3).
-
Trail 5 - Beyond Grassmarket
(purple icons)
The Castle Arms
The Bow Bar
Bar Salsa
Oz Bar
Greyfriars Bobby bar
Sandy Bell's
Malone's
The Doctors.
Boteco Do Brazil
Paradise Palms
Frankenstein's
George IV Bar
Links for EDINBURGH city centre Pubtrails
-
Trail 1 - Princes St to Haymarket
(yellow icons)
The Huxley (formerly Rutland Bar)
Ghillie Dhu
The Angel's Share (formerly Hudsons)
Ryan's Bar
HP Mather.
The Grosvenor
Au Bar
Teuchters
The Voyage of Buck (was Bert's Bar)
Mercat Bar
The Haymarket
Ryries.
-
Trail 2 Haymarket to Lothian Rd
(green icons)
This tour of the pubs starts from Haymarket station.
Ryries (Closed)
The Haymarket.
The Jolly Botanist (formerly The Spider's Web)
Diane's Pool Hall.
Monty’s (was Carters Bar)
Thompsons Bar
Lebinskis (Closed)
Innes & Gunn Tap (was The Beer Kitchen)
All Bar One
Shakespeares
Red Squirrel
-
Trail 3 - Grassmarket
(red icons)
The Grassmarket contains seven pubs and there is an eighth called the Grassmarket just around the corner.
Biddy Mulligans
Maggie Dickson's Bar
The Last Drop
The White Hart
The Beehive
The Black Bull
Fiddlers Arms
JC Christie & Sons (formerly The Grassmarket)
-
Trail 4 - Around Bread St
Walk up the left hand side of Lothian Rd from Princess St and after crossing to small streets start at
The Red Squirrel
Shakespeare.
Innes & Gun Tap (was The Beer Kitchen)
All Bar One.
The Hanging Bat.
The Chanter
Monboddo.
The Footlights
The Blue Blazer
The Dragonfly Cocktail Bar
W.J Christie and Son (called The Grassmarket in trail 3).
-
Trail 5 - Beyond Grassmarket
(purple icons)
The Castle Arms
The Bow Bar
Bar Salsa
Oz Bar
Greyfriars Bobby bar
Sandy Bell's
Malone's
The Doctors.
Boteco Do Brazil
Paradise Palms
Frankenstein's
George IV Bar
-
Trail 6 - Royal Mile
(Brown icons)
The Ensign Ewart
The Jolly Judge
Deacon Brodies
The Albanach
The Mitre
The Royal Mile Tavern
The Whiski Bar
Number 1 High St
The Tolbooth Tavern
The Kilderkiln.
The return journey is
Cannon's Gait
The White Horse
The Worlds End
Inn on The Mile
The Royal McGregor
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Trail 7 - Cowgate
(dark blue) -
The Inn on The Mile
The Tron
The Advocate
The City Cafe
OX184
Brewdog
The Three Sisters
Bannerman's
Bar 50
Holyrood 9A
The Globe
Whistlebinkies
-
Trail 8 - Southside
(orange icons)
Inn on the Mile
Biblos
The Royal Oak
The Whistle Stop
Brass Monkey
The Captain's Bar
The Southsider
Greenmantle
McSorley's
The Dagba
Pear Tree House
The Blind Poet
Andrew Usher & Co
The Potting Shed
-
Trail 9 - Around Waverley Station
Out one exit and around to another entrance.
(light blue icons)
Half Way House
Jinglin' Geardie's.
Scotsman' Lounge
The Malt Shovel
The Hebrides
Belushi's
The Doric
The Booking Office
Guildford Arms
Cafe Royal
PLACES TO VISIT WITH PUBTRAILS
The towns and villages highlighted on this web site have a wide variety of pubs and beers in them. All of the places are great to visit, whether for a day or longer, and most have tourist attractions for all of the family.
There is a large variety of pubs throughout the different towns shown below. Some you may wish never to visit again but even discovering these can be interesting. There are pubs that you would not take your wife into. While some you could not take your girlfriend into. A few you would not take either into. However, most of the pubs are very pleasant.
HOME MAP of places visited
Alnwick Ambleside Anstruther Bakewell Bamburgh Barnard Castle Bath Berwick upon Tweed Birnam & Dunkeld Bourton on the Water Bowness on Windermere Bridge of Allan Chester Chichester Dunblane Dunoon Edinburgh Ely Fort William Glasgow Gourock Greenock Helensburgh Inverness Kelso Keswick Knaresbourgh Largs Linlithgow Lyme Regis Melrose Montrose Newton Stewart North Berwick Norwich Oban Pebbles Penzance Portree Pitlochry Quorn Richmond Rothesay St Andrews Seahouses Seend Shrewsbury Skipton Stirling Stratford-upon-Avon Stockton Heath Whitby Windemere Whitstable York
Other interesting pages
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Books on Beer
A selection of recommended books covering all aspects of beer and brewing. There are books on the history of beer and others on different styles of beer.
For example
An Inebriated History of Britain by Peter Haydon
Amber, Gold & Black by Martyn Cornell
Brew Britannia by Jessica Boak & Ray Bailey
The Story of the Pint by Martyn Cornell
Miracle Brew by Pete Brown
Built to Brew by Lynn Pearson
And many more
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Pubs visited by Stevenson & MacKay
It all begins with an idea. Maybe you want to launch a business. Maybe you want to turn a hobby into something more.
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Books on Pubs
A selection of recommended books on pubs and their history. There are books on the social history of pubs and the design of pubs through the ages.
There are also books on visiting pubs and ones recommending pubs to visit.
CAMRA’s Good Beer Guide
Death of the English Pub by Christopher Hutt
Brewers, Brands and the Pubs in their Hands by Tony Thornton
Licensed to Sell by Brandwood, Davidson & Slaughter
And many more
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Map of CAMRA branches
Map of CAMRA branches and e-mail links
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Places visited by Pubtrails
Map of villages, towns and cities visited by pubtrails
ANSWER: 15th Century