EDINBURGH

Trail 1 - Princess St to Haymarket

Welcome to Pub Trails - EDINBURGH

Trail 1 - Princess St to Haymarket

Edinburgh is the capital city of Scotland and lies on the East coast on the Firth of Forth. The second highest population in Scotland it is the largest city by area. The city is famous for its architecture and design, both the old town and the new town are World Heritage sites. It has a world famous Castle and hosts the Edinburgh Festival (and Fringe) every year.

The easiest way to get to Edinburgh is by train to Waverley station. There is also the second last station which is Haymarket. These stations are at either end of Princes Street and Haymarket is the stop for Edinburgh's West End

 Edinburgh is a large city with many pubs spread over different areas of the town. Rose Street is a very popular drinking trail so I have ignored it and have introduced nine other pub trails based in Edinburgh. There is a short one viewing pubs at the Grassmarket (red icons) and two slightly longer (or one very long) starting at Haymarket station towards Lothian Rd (green icons) or Princes Street to Haymarket (yellow icons) taking in pubs in the West End and Lothian Road triangle.

All of the pubs are highlighted on the map below.

Now added is a trail, About Bread St (blue icons) linking West End trails to The Grassmarket Trail and a trail going Beyond The Grassmarket (purple icons) and finally The Royal Mile (brown icons).

There are also trails in The Cowgate (dark blue icons), heading to The Southside (orange icons) and Around Waverley Station (light Blue Icons)

 Princes St to Haymarket Station (yellow icons)

Take a train to Waverley station and walk through the Princes Street Gardens to reach the end of Princes Street and the start of the West End.

 At this end of Princes Street there is a junction of five roads and there several bars to visit. After leaving the gardens reach the corner and cross Lothian Road. On the opposite corner is the Huxley (formerly Rutland Bar) and to the right of it, in a converted church, is The Ghillie Dhu. The street is now Shandwick Place.

Looking across the road and to the right there are two roads intersecting together - Hope Street to the right and Queensferry St to the left - with the start of Shandwick Place. The Angel’s Share (formerly Hudsons) is on the Hope Street (right hand street), Ryan's Bar at the apex of the junction and across Broughton St (the left road) from Ryan's is HP Mather.

These first five bars are also the last five of trail 2. This makes it possible to link these two together into one long trail.

Around the corner and walking down Shandwick Place is The Grosvenor and back over on the left at a corner is The Fox and Faun (formerly Au Bar)

You are now in a large impressive crescent called Coates Crescent. Back track a little to the side road across Shandwick Place from the Au Bar. This is called Stafford St. Walk up this and take the first left into William St. Along here, opposite one another, are Teuchters and The Voyage of Buck (was Bert's Bar). Continue along William Street and turn left and walk back down to the middle of Coates Crescent.

There is now a short walk to the Mercat Bar still on the right-hand pavement and then, finally, on the opposite side of the road is The Haymarket. On the opposite junction, beside the station, is Ryries

These last two bars are also the first two of trail 2. This makes it possible to link these together into one long trail.

Pub Facts

 

A place this size is bound to have its own guides to illustrate the vast quantity, quality and styles of pubs.

CAMRA in Edinburgh

Many of the pubs do serve real ale and while a lot of pubs offer a choice of real ale some only offer one which is inevitably Deuchers. Quite often these pubs are only playing at selling real ale and the Deuchers is not as tasty as it can be.

 

Practically every pub offers food at lunch or all day

 The Huxley

(formerly The Rutland)

 The Huxley (formerly Rutland Bar) is a well designed curved room with booths and variety of styles of tables and chairs. Lots of tables for two. Music and lighting to relax to. Large windows to people watch at this busy junction. Food served.

Have a half pint here

heavy       :Deuchars, Bitter & twisted, Caledonia Best, Belhaven Best

lager         :Schiehallion,, Birra Moretta, Heineken, Carling, St Mungos

cider         : Strongbow                                              Guinness

 Ghillie Dhu

 Ghillie Dhu is a converted church which has been floored to have a large function/band room upstairs and a large (church sized) 'public bar' at street level. There is a long serving area with plenty of standing room and long tall tables. Beyond that is a large seating/dining area, raised up a few steps, where music is also performed during the evening. Behind the bar there are further booths for four or snugs for bigger parties. The booths can be served through small hatches in the back bar. Food served.

Have a pint here

real ale    : Deuchars, Gillie Ale

heavy        :Caledonia Best

lager         :Tennent's, Starapramen

cider         : Magners                                                  Guinness

Pub Jukebox:

Alcohol themed music to listen to while you browse.

whisky rock ‘n’ roller - Lynyrd Skynyrd

 The Angel's Share

 The Angel's Share (formerly Hudsons) is the bar of a hotel. It is modern and very shiny. Low lights, low music and dining tables for two. Food served.

Have a half pint here

heavy       :Innes & Gunn, (only by the half pint), Belhaven Best,

lager         :Carlsberg, San Miguel, Heineken

cider         : Strongbow                                             Guinness

 Ryan's 

 Ryan's is a large round bar on a junction corner. It has a high ornate ceiling. There is a restaurant downstairs and a coffee bar in the right-hand curve.  Lots of tables close together (small & round seating 4 to give a cafe feel) and not a lot of standing room except at the bar. Outside seating along the road. Serves food.

Have one here

real ale    : Old speckled Hen, Deuchars, Bitter & Twisted, Stewarts 80/-

heavy        : Innes & Gunn, Belhaven Best

lager         :Tennent's, 1664, Carling, Heineken, Stella, Blue Moon,

                    Peroni

cider         : Strongbow                                                  Guinness

 H P Mather ★

  HP Mathers is an old style bar which has retained its old bar charm - mainly men; some drunks; lots of chatter; three different sports on TV; a wooden floor where it is impossible to see the planks. The tall mirrored back gantry is great.

One of Scotland's Heritage pubs

Featured in Bob Steel's Edinburgh Pub Walks

Have a  pint here

real ale    : 6X, Deuchers, Flying Scotsman, West End cask

heavy       : Belhaven best,, McEwan's 70/-. John Smiths

lager         :Tennent's, Stella, Carlsberg

cider         :   Strongbow                                            Guinness

 The Grosvenor

The Grosvenor serving area to the left is long and the drinking space narrow. To the right is a larger seating area with booths and tables.

Have a half pint here

real ale    : Deuchers

heavy       : Caledonia best,

lager         :Tennent's, Stella, 1664, Peroni, Stella Black

cider         : Aspall  , Weston'sWyld Wood real cider                                                                                                              Guinness

 Au Bar (now The Fox and Faun)

Au Bar (think chemical symbols!) ( now called The Fox and Faun). This is a long bar with seat & drinking area at front with serving bar. Beyond this is more for dining and then doors to beer garden.

Have one here

real ale     : Bitter & Twisted, Golden Amber, Foxy Blonde

heavy        : Caledonian Best

lager         : Tennents, Stella, Strap

 cider        : Brother's Pear                                                   Guinness

 Teuchters  

Teuchters  is a two room pub opened up. lots of seating and standing in front part where the attractive bar is. Further seating through to rear. Helpful staff. Gets packed

Featured in Bob Steel's Edinburgh Pub Walks

The Good Beer Guide (CAMRA) regular, including 2023, 2024

Have more here

real ale     : Deuchars, Red Rocker (Cromatory Brewery), Jarl, Landlord, Dark Munro

heavy        :Innis & Gunn Oak Aged, Belhaven Best, Brew Dog Punk

lager         : Amstel, Black Isle, Peroni, Weihenstephen, West 4

cider         :Magners, Blackthorn                                 Guinness

Pub Quiz

In which century was the modern game of golf first played?

Answer at foot of page

 The Voyage of Buck (was Bert’s Bar)

Bert's Bar (now called The Voyage of Buck) has tables to the left and then a thin bar with not much standing room. To the right is a large open room with seating. Staff were great. Gets busy.

Featured in Bob Steel's Edinburgh Pub Walks

Have more here

real ale     : Deuchars, Stewart Zymic, Mellow Yellow, Landlord,    Red Smiddy, William's Red, Schielhallion

heavy        :Joker, Caledonian Best

lager         : Tennent's, Stella Black

cider         :Magners, Blackthorn                                    Guinness

 Mercat

Mercat Bar is a small bar/diner successfully trying for the intimate style - Mood music and lighting, and large TV. Attracts the premium lager drinkers. Not much room at bar. It has a whisky bar and more tables downstairs.

Have half pint here

real ale     : Deuchers

heavy        : Belhaven Best

lager         : Tennent's, Stella, West 4, Kozel, Cruzcampo

 cider        : Aspall                                                 Guinness

 The Haymarket

The Haymarket is a large pub set on the apex of a Y-junction which gives it a more interesting shape inside. It is a Nicolson's pub - one of 7 in the city. There is a lot of room in it but it can be crowded at the bar. 12 pumps of real ale were available. There is more seating upstairs

Have a pint here

real ale    : Deuchars, Jack Black, Nicolson's Pale Ale, Carte Noir, Black Swan, Topaz Gold, Junga, 80/- Stewart

heavy       : John Smith, McEwan's 70/-

lager         : Tennent's, Carling, Peroni, San Miguel

cider         : Aspall                                             Guinness

 Ryries

Ryries Bar has recently reopened after refurbishment and is just outside Haymarket station. There is a long bar with a smaller sitting room beyond. Six pumps but only one on to sell real ale. Fridges were bare and some lager was off. It has an attractive public bar feel. Entrance doors a bit cramped, especially if smokers there.

Featured in Bob Steel's Edinburgh Pub Walks

One of Scotland's Heritage Pubs - CAMRA

CAMRA Good Beer Guide 2024, 2025

Have one here

real ale     :Orkney Best  (Swanney)You Shall Not Pass  (Loch Lomond); Man O’Hoy (Orkney); Hurricane Jack (Fyne Ales);  Landlord;  Dark Island (Orkney)

Heavy/Pale Ale :Preserve;  Local Motive ;  Session IPA (Stewart);  Happy Chappy (Cromatory);  Caledonia Best

 Lager :Leith pils;  Staroperaman;   Estrella;  Tennent’s

 Cider            :Strongbow                  Guinness

Links for EDINBURGH city centre Pubtrails

  • Trail 1 - Princes St to Haymarket

    (yellow icons)

    The Huxley (formerly Rutland Bar)

    Ghillie Dhu

    The Angel's Share (formerly Hudsons)

    Ryan's Bar

    HP Mather.

    The Grosvenor

    Au Bar

    Teuchters

    The Voyage of Buck (was Bert's Bar)

    Mercat Bar

    The Haymarket

    Ryries.

  • Trail 2 Haymarket to Lothian Rd

    (green icons)

    This tour of the pubs starts from Haymarket station.

    Ryries

    The Haymarket.

    The Jolly Botanist (formerly The Spider's Web)

    Diane's Pool Hall.

    Monty’s (was Carters Bar)

    Thompsons Bar

    Lebinskis (Closed)

    Innes & Gunn Tap (was The Beer Kitchen)

    All Bar One

    Shakespeares

    Red Squirrel

  • Trail 3 - Grassmarket

    (red icons)

    The Grassmarket contains seven pubs and there is an eighth called the Grassmarket just around the corner.

    Biddy Mulligans

    Maggie Dickson's Bar

    The Last Drop

    The White Hart

    The Beehive

    The Black Bull

    Fiddlers Arms

    JC Christie & Sons (formerly The Grassmarket)

  • Trail 4 - Around Bread St

    Walk up the left hand side of Lothian Rd from Princess St and after crossing to small streets start at

    The Red Squirrel

    Shakespeare.

    Innes & Gun Tap (was The Beer Kitchen)

    All Bar One.

    The Hanging Bat.

    The Chanter

    Monboddo.

    The Footlights

    The Blue Blazer

    The Dragonfly Cocktail Bar

    W.J Christie and Son (called The Grassmarket in trail 3).

  • Trail 5 - Beyond Grassmarket

    (purple icons)

    The Castle Arms

    The Bow Bar

    Bar Salsa

    Oz Bar

    Greyfriars Bobby bar

    Sandy Bell's

    Malone's

    The Doctors.

    Boteco Do Brazil

    Paradise Palms

    Frankenstein's

    George IV Bar

Links for EDINBURGH city centre Pubtrails

  • Trail 1 - Princes St to Haymarket

    (yellow icons)

    The Huxley (formerly Rutland Bar)

    Ghillie Dhu

    The Angel's Share (formerly Hudsons)

    Ryan's Bar

    HP Mather.

    The Grosvenor

    Au Bar

    Teuchters

    The Voyage of Buck (was Bert's Bar)

    Mercat Bar

    The Haymarket

    Ryries.

  • Trail 2 Haymarket to Lothian Rd

    (green icons)

    This tour of the pubs starts from Haymarket station.

    Ryries (Closed)

    The Haymarket.

    The Jolly Botanist (formerly The Spider's Web)

    Diane's Pool Hall.

    Monty’s (was Carters Bar)

    Thompsons Bar

    Lebinskis (Closed)

    Innes & Gunn Tap (was The Beer Kitchen)

    All Bar One

    Shakespeares

    Red Squirrel

  • Trail 3 - Grassmarket

    (red icons)

    The Grassmarket contains seven pubs and there is an eighth called the Grassmarket just around the corner.

    Biddy Mulligans

    Maggie Dickson's Bar

    The Last Drop

    The White Hart

    The Beehive

    The Black Bull

    Fiddlers Arms

    JC Christie & Sons (formerly The Grassmarket)

  • Trail 4 - Around Bread St

    Walk up the left hand side of Lothian Rd from Princess St and after crossing to small streets start at

    The Red Squirrel

    Shakespeare.

    Innes & Gun Tap (was The Beer Kitchen)

    All Bar One.

    The Hanging Bat.

    The Chanter

    Monboddo.

    The Footlights

    The Blue Blazer

    The Dragonfly Cocktail Bar

    W.J Christie and Son (called The Grassmarket in trail 3).

  • Trail 5 - Beyond Grassmarket

    (purple icons)

    The Castle Arms

    The Bow Bar

    Bar Salsa

    Oz Bar

    Greyfriars Bobby bar

    Sandy Bell's

    Malone's

    The Doctors.

    Boteco Do Brazil

    Paradise Palms

    Frankenstein's

    George IV Bar

  • Trail 6 - Royal Mile

    (Brown icons)

    The Ensign Ewart

    The Jolly Judge

    Deacon Brodies

    The Albanach

    The Mitre

    The Royal Mile Tavern

    The Whiski Bar

    Number 1 High St

    The Tolbooth Tavern

    The Kilderkiln.

    The return journey is

    Cannon's Gait

    The White Horse

    The Worlds End

    Inn on The Mile

    The Royal McGregor

  • Trail 7 - Cowgate

    (dark blue) -

    The Inn on The Mile

    The Tron

    The Advocate

    The City Cafe

    OX184

    Brewdog

    The Three Sisters

    Bannerman's

    Bar 50

    Holyrood 9A

    The Globe

    Whistlebinkies

  • Trail 8 - Southside

    (orange icons)

    Inn on the Mile

    Biblos

    The Royal Oak

    The Whistle Stop

    Brass Monkey

    The Captain's Bar

    The Southsider

    Greenmantle

    McSorley's

    The Dagba

    Pear Tree House

    The Blind Poet

    Andrew Usher & Co

    The Potting Shed

  • Trail 9 - Around Waverley Station

    Out one exit and around to another entrance.

    (light blue icons)

    Half Way House

    Jinglin' Geardie's.

    Scotsman' Lounge

    The Malt Shovel

    The Hebrides

    Belushi's

    The Doric

    The Booking Office

    Guildford Arms

    Cafe Royal

Some Edinburgh and the Borders area Breweries

PLACES TO VISIT WITH PUBTRAILS

 The towns and villages highlighted on this web site have a wide variety of pubs and beers in them.  All of the places are great to visit, whether for a day or longer, and most have tourist attractions for all of the family.

There is a large variety of pubs throughout the different towns shown below. Some you may wish never to visit again but even discovering these can be interesting. There are pubs that you would not take your wife into. While some you could not take your girlfriend into. A few you would not take either into. However, most of the pubs are very pleasant.

HOME MAP of places visited

Alnwick Ambleside Anstruther Bakewell Bamburgh Barnard Castle Bath Berwick upon Tweed Birnam & Dunkeld Bourton on the Water Bowness on Windermere Bridge of Allan Chester Chichester Dunblane Dunoon Edinburgh Ely Fort William Glasgow Gourock Greenock                   Helensburgh Inverness Kelso Keswick Knaresbourgh Largs Linlithgow Lyme Regis Melrose Montrose Newton Stewart North Berwick Norwich Oban Pebbles Penzance Portree Pitlochry Quorn Richmond Rothesay St Andrews Seahouses Seend Shrewsbury Skipton Stirling Stratford-upon-Avon Stockton Heath Whitby Windemere Whitstable York

“No married man is genuinely happy if he has to drink worse whisky than he used to drink when he was single.

 

— H L Mencken

Other interesting pages

  • Books on Beer

    A selection of recommended books covering all aspects of beer and brewing. There are books on the history of beer and others on different styles of beer.

    For example

    An Inebriated History of Britain by Peter Haydon

    Amber, Gold & Black by Martyn Cornell

    Brew Britannia by Jessica Boak & Ray Bailey

    The Story of the Pint by Martyn Cornell

    Miracle Brew by Pete Brown

    Built to Brew by Lynn Pearson

    And many more

  • Pubs visited by Stevenson & MacKay

    It all begins with an idea. Maybe you want to launch a business. Maybe you want to turn a hobby into something more.

    MAP
  • Books on Pubs

    A selection of recommended books on pubs and their history. There are books on the social history of pubs and the design of pubs through the ages.

    There are also books on visiting pubs and ones recommending pubs to visit.

    CAMRA’s Good Beer Guide

    Death of the English Pub by Christopher Hutt

    Brewers, Brands and the Pubs in their Hands by Tony Thornton

    Licensed to Sell by Brandwood, Davidson & Slaughter

    And many more

  • Map of CAMRA branches

    Map of CAMRA branches and e-mail links

  • Places visited by Pubtrails

    Map of villages, towns and cities visited by pubtrails

ANSWER: 15th Century