EDINBURGH
Trail 2 - Haymarket to Lothian Rd
Edinburgh is the capital city of Scotland and lies on the East coast on the Firth of Forth. The second highest population in Scotland it is the largest city by area. The city is famous for its architecture and design, both the old town and the new town are World Heritage sites. It has a world famous Castle and hosts the Edinburgh Festival (and Fringe) every year.
The easiest way to get to Edinburgh is by train to Waverley station. There is also the second last station which is Haymarket. These stations are at either end of Princes Street and Haymarket is the stop for Edinburgh's West End
Edinburgh is a large city with many pubs spread over different areas of the town. Rose Street is a very popular drinking trail so I have ignored it and have introduced nine other pub trails based in Edinburgh. There is a short one viewing pubs at the Grassmarket (red icons) and two slightly longer (or one very long) starting at Haymarket station towards Lothian Rd (green icons) or Princes Street to Haymarket (yellow icons) taking in pubs in the West End and Lothian Road triangle.
All of the pubs are highlighted on the map below.
Now added is a trail, Around Bread St (blue icons) linking West End trails to The Grassmarket Trail and a trail going Beyond The Grassmarket (purple icons) and finally The Royal Mile (brown icons).
There are also trails in The Cowgate (dark blue icons), heading to The Southside (orange icons) and Around Waverley Station (light Blue Icons)
Trail 2 Haymarket Station to Lothian Rd/Princes Street (Green icons)
This tour of the pubs (marked with the green indication points on the map) starts from Haymarket station. Several pubs have closed (black icon) and not re-opened. Closing and re-opening under another name is common but not total closure. Fortunately, some new pubs have opened to replace them and are shown by an orange icon.
Start at Ryries which is found right outside the station. Across from that on the junction is The Haymarket. Walk up the road on the right side of the Haymarket pub, called Morrision St, and find The Jolly Botanist (was The Spider's Web), while further up on the corner is Diane's Pool Hall. Continue up Morrison St and crossover to Monty’s (was Carters Bar). Cross back over and slightly further up is Thompsons Bar.
There is now a little walk passed the Edinburgh International Conference Centre until almost at Lothian Road (recognised by being extremely busy) where there is Lebowskis now closed (try Henry’s Cellar Bar), just before the corner.
Turn left down Lothian Road and cross over to visit Innes & Gunn Tap, then cross back over to the square in front of the Sheraton Hotel there is All Bar One in the far-right corner. Leaving here cross the road to Shakespears on the corner beside the Usher Hall. Opposite this is BrewDog and further down The Caley Picture House (Wetherspoon’s). Then further down from this is The Red Squirrel.
After these bars continuing down Lothian Rd to Princes St there are five bars at the junction of the five roads found here where Princes Street (see start of trail 1 - Edinburgh West End)
Ryries Bar ★
reopened April 2022 thoroughly refurbished
Ryries bar is just outside Haymarket station.
An entry in "Scotland's True Heritage Pubs" HISTORY
CAMRA Good Beer Guide 2024, 2025
Have one here
real ale : Orkney Best (Swanney); You Shall Not Pass (Loch Lomond); Man O’Hoy (Orkney); Hurricane Jack (Fyne Ales); Landlord; Dark Island (Orkney)
heavy/pale ale: Preserve; Local Motive ; Session IPA (Stewart); Happy Chappy (Cromatory); Caledonia Best
Lager: Leith Pils; Staroperaman; Estrella; Tennent’s
cider : Strongbow Guinness
The Haymarket
The Haymarket is a large pub set on the apex of a Y-junction which gives it a more interesting shape inside. It is a Nicolson's pub - one of 7 in the city. There is a lot of room in it but it can be crowded at the bar. 12 pumps of real ale were available. There is more seating upstairs
Regular in Good beer Guide, including 2023
Have two here
real ale : Deuchers, Nicolson’s PA, Doom bar, Hummingbird, Bell 80, Fat Sprat (Adnams), Two Tides (Sharp’s), Timothy Taylor Dark Mild
heavy : John Smith, McEwan's 70/-
lager : Tennent’s; Peroni, Carling; Urquell
cider : Aspall Guinness
The Jolly Botanist
formerly The Spider’s Web
The Jolly Botanist (formerly The Spider's Web)
Have a pint here
Real ale: Deuchers
Heavy; Coast To Coast; Peculiar IPA
Lager: Heineken, Birra Moretti, Affligem, Amstel ; 3 Hop Lager
Cider: Symonds Guinness
Diane's Pool Hall - now called Malone’s
Diane's Pool Hall now called Malone’s had cheap pool, cheap beer and a largely male bias. Loud customers, loud juke box, lots of TVs
Have a half pint here
real ale : nil
heavy :Caledonia Best
lager :Tennent's, Stella, Carling
cider :Magners
The Hebrides West End
was Monty's was Carter’s ★
Monty's (formerly called Carters Bar) is a small intimate bar. Squashed seating either side of staircase leading to balcony over the bar.
Have a pint here
real ale : Devil's Advocate (Caledonian), October Zest
heavy :Belhaven Best
lager :Kirin Ichiban, Stella, Red Stripe; Tennent's
cider : Strongbow Guinness
Thompson's ★
Thompson's has two entrances to a one roomed bar. Wood dominates not just behind the bar but around the doors as well. Tables around the sides but plenty of standing room. Real ale is not luxury good. Loud and chatty.
Real Ale guide (CAMRA) regular 2022 last
Featured in Bob Steel's Edinburgh Pub Walks - books
Have one or two here
real ale : London Pride, Jarl,Bitter & Twisted, Tyneside Blonde
heavy : MeEwan 80/-; Belhaven Best
lager :Tennent's
cider : Strongbow Guinness
Lebowskis
closed, but threatening to reopen - Meanwhile there is Henry’s Cellar Bar still operating down below it.
Lebowskis has a bar to the left with lots of standing room and some tall tables. Further to the right is a lot more seating. Outside decking to watch the traffic from.
Unfortunately closed down. Greene King say hope new premises opens soon https://www.edinburghlive.co.uk/news/legendary-edinburgh-theme-bar-closes-22082133 . Meanwhile there is Henry’s Cellar Bar still operating down below it.
Have a half pint here
real ale : Deuchers
heavy : Belhaven Best,
lager :Carling, Coors, Grolsch, San Miguel, Heineken
cider : Addlestone Guinness
PLACES TO VISIT WITH PUBTRAILS
The towns and villages highlighted on this web site have a wide variety of pubs and beers in them. All of the places are great to visit, whether for a day or longer, and most have tourist attractions for all of the family.
There is a large variety of pubs throughout the different towns shown below. Some you may wish never to visit again but even discovering these can be interesting. There are pubs that you would not take your wife into. While some you could not take your girlfriend into. A few you would not take either into. However, most of the pubs are very pleasant.
HOME MAP of places visited
Alnwick Ambleside Anstruther Bakewell Bamburgh Barnard Castle Bath Berwick upon Tweed Birnam & Dunkeld Bourton on the Water Bowness on Windermere Bridge of Allan Chester Chichester Dunblane Dunoon Edinburgh Ely Fort William Glasgow Gourock Greenock Helensburgh Inverness Kelso Keswick Knaresbourgh Largs Linlithgow Lyme Regis Melrose Montrose Newton Stewart North Berwick Norwich Oban Pebbles Penzance Portree Pitlochry Quorn Richmond Rothesay St Andrews Seahouses Seend Shrewsbury Skipton Stirling Stratford-upon-Avon Stockton Heath Whitby Windemere Whitstable York
Innes & Gunn Brewery Tap
Innes & Gunn Brewery Tap is a bar diner by Innes and Gunn has stools and shelve looking out of the windows either side of the door. Up a step or two is a long metal bar counter on the left-hand side. Opposite this is booth seating. Food offered all day. Some outside seating on pavement
Real Ale: Jarl (Fyne Ales); Landlord; Pilot Stout; Edinburgh Pale Ale (Edinburgh)
Craft: Lagunitas IPA (Lagunitas Brewing, USA); Innes & Gunn Toasted Oak; Innes & Gunn Original; Camden (Camden)
Lager: Innes & Gunn Lager; Camden (Camden)
Cider: Thistly Cross (real)
All Bar One
All Bar One is a large modern barn. Bar straight in front with large standing area. Seating to either side and outside.
Have half pint here
real ale : Natural Blonde (Harviston) Ruthaus Wheat Beer
lager : Esterella,Tennents, Stella, Peroni, Grolsch, Amstel; Heiniken, Pilsner Urquell
cider :Aspall
Shakespeares ★
Shakespeares is a corner pub, its frontage is short but it goes back a fair bit and has outside seating down the side where it faces the Usher Hall. A long pub that was probably two separate rooms at some point. This still splits into two serving areas. The rear area has 12 foot screen for sports. Food served all day
Have a pint here
real ale : Luck of The Irish (Stonehenge); Drop Kick (Caledonian); Greene King IPA; Butcombe Haka; Extra Pale Ale (Nottingham)
Craft: Punk IPA; Dead Pony Club; Bitter & Twisted, Schielhallion; 4 West
heavy : Belhaven Best
lager :Peroni; Heineken, Stella, St Mungo
cider : Symond's Founders Guinness
Red Squirrel ★ ❤
Red Squirrel is bar/cafe diner on Lothian Road with small tables and some bar stools. Attractively presented it has beer fonts coming out of back wall (which is being copied a lot). Excellent Burger Food served all day
Have one here
real ale : Jarl, Cock of the Walk,
heavy : Belhaven Best, Joker IPA, Hardcore Pale Ale, Innis & Gunn
lager :Black Isle Organic, San Miguel, Urquell, St Mungos, Peroni, Tennent’s, Blue Moon, Weihenstephen
cider : Aspall Guinness, Black Ball Stout
Links for EDINBURGH city centre Pubtrails
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Trail 1 - Princes St to Haymarket
(yellow icons)
The Huxley (formerly Rutland Bar)
Ghillie Dhu
The Angel's Share (formerly Hudsons)
Ryan's Bar
HP Mather.
The Grosvenor
Au Bar
Teuchters
The Voyage of Buck (was Bert's Bar)
Mercat Bar
The Haymarket
Ryries.
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Trail 2 Haymarket to Lothian Rd
(green icons)
This tour of the pubs starts from Haymarket station.
Ryries (Closed)
The Haymarket.
The Jolly Botanist (formerly The Spider's Web)
Diane's Pool Hall.
Monty’s (was Carters Bar)
Thompsons Bar
Lebinskis (Closed)
Innes & Gunn Tap (was The Beer Kitchen)
All Bar One
Shakespeares
Red Squirrel
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Trail 3 - Grassmarket
(red icons)
The Grassmarket contains seven pubs and there is an eighth called the Grassmarket just around the corner.
Biddy Mulligans
Maggie Dickson's Bar
The Last Drop
The White Hart
The Beehive
The Black Bull
Fiddlers Arms
JC Christie & Sons (formerly The Grassmarket)
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Trail 4 - Around Bread St
Walk up the left hand side of Lothian Rd from Princess St and after crossing to small streets start at
The Red Squirrel
Shakespeare.
Innes & Gun Tap (was The Beer Kitchen)
All Bar One.
The Hanging Bat.
The Chanter
Monboddo.
The Footlights
The Blue Blazer
The Dragonfly Cocktail Bar
W.J Christie and Son (called The Grassmarket in trail 3).
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Trail 5 - Beyond Grassmarket
(purple icons)
The Castle Arms
The Bow Bar
Bar Salsa
Oz Bar
Greyfriars Bobby bar
Sandy Bell's
Malone's
The Doctors.
Boteco Do Brazil
Paradise Palms
Frankenstein's
George IV Bar
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Trail 6 - Royal Mile
(Brown icons)
The Ensign Ewart
The Jolly Judge
Deacon Brodies
The Albanach
The Mitre
The Royal Mile Tavern
The Whiski Bar
Number 1 High St
The Tolbooth Tavern
The Kilderkiln.
The return journey is
Cannon's Gait
The White Horse
The Worlds End
Inn on The Mile
The Royal McGregor
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Trail 7 - Cowgate
(dark blue) -
The Inn on The Mile
The Tron
The Advocate
The City Cafe
OX184
Brewdog
The Three Sisters
Bannerman's
Bar 50
Holyrood 9A
The Globe
Whistlebinkies
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Trail 8 - Southside
(orange icons)
Inn on the Mile
Biblos
The Royal Oak
The Whistle Stop
Brass Monkey
The Captain's Bar
The Southsider
Greenmantle
McSorley's
The Dagba
Pear Tree House
The Blind Poet
Andrew Usher & Co
The Potting Shed
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Trail 9 - Around Waverley Station
Out one exit and around to another entrance.
(light blue icons)
Half Way House
Jinglin' Geardie's.
Scotsman' Lounge
The Malt Shovel
The Hebrides
Belushi's
The Doric
The Booking Office
Guildford Arms
Cafe Royal
Other interesting pages
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Books on Beer
A selection of recommended books covering all aspects of beer and brewing. There are books on the history of beer and others on different styles of beer.
For example
An Inebriated History of Britain by Peter Haydon
Amber, Gold & Black by Martyn Cornell
Brew Britannia by Jessica Boak & Ray Bailey
The Story of the Pint by Martyn Cornell
Miracle Brew by Pete Brown
Built to Brew by Lynn Pearson
And many more
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Pubs visited by Stevenson & MacKay
Craig Stevenson and John MacKay have used their bus passes to good effect. They have toured the towns and cities of Scotland visiting pubs. They recount their adventures in a series of books:
The Auldest Boozers in Town
The Cheap Way Round
Still Goin’
Inn Aff The Bar
Goin’ Roon The Edge
Mud, Sweat and Beers
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Books on Pubs
A selection of recommended books on pubs and their history. There are books on the social history of pubs and the design of pubs through the ages.
There are also books on visiting pubs and ones recommending pubs to visit.
CAMRA’s Good Beer Guide
Death of the English Pub by Christopher Hutt
Brewers, Brands and the Pubs in their Hands by Tony Thornton
Licensed to Sell by Brandwood, Davidson & Slaughter
And many more
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Map of CAMRA branches
Map of CAMRA branches and e-mail links
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Places visited by Pubtrails
Map of villages, towns and cities visited by pubtrails
ANSWER: Blue Ridge Mountains