EDINBURGH

Trail 2 - Haymarket to Lothian Rd

Edinburgh is the capital city of Scotland and lies on the East coast on the Firth of Forth. The second highest population in Scotland it is the largest city by area. The city is famous for its architecture and design, both the old town and the new town are World Heritage sites. It has a world famous Castle and hosts the Edinburgh Festival (and Fringe) every year.

The easiest way to get to Edinburgh is by train to Waverley station. There is also the second last station which is Haymarket. These stations are at either end of Princes Street and Haymarket is the stop for Edinburgh's West End

 Edinburgh is a large city with many pubs spread over different areas of the town. Rose Street is a very popular drinking trail so I have ignored it and have introduced nine other pub trails based in Edinburgh. There is a short one viewing pubs at the Grassmarket (red icons) and two slightly longer (or one very long) starting at Haymarket station towards Lothian Rd (green icons) or Princes Street to Haymarket (yellow icons) taking in pubs in the West End and Lothian Road triangle.

All of the pubs are highlighted on the map below.

Now added is a trail, Around Bread St (blue icons) linking West End trails to The Grassmarket Trail and a trail going Beyond The Grassmarket (purple icons) and finally The Royal Mile (brown icons).

There are also trails in The Cowgate (dark blue icons), heading to The Southside (orange icons) and Around Waverley Station (light Blue Icons)

Trail 2 Haymarket Station to Lothian Rd/Princes Street (Green icons)

This tour of the pubs (marked with the green indication points on the map) starts from Haymarket station. Several pubs have closed (black icon) and not re-opened. Closing and re-opening under another name is common but not total closure. Fortunately, some new pubs have opened to replace them and are shown by an orange icon.

 Start at Ryries which is found right outside the station. Across from that on the junction is The Haymarket. Walk up the road on the right side of the Haymarket pub, called Morrision St, and find The Jolly Botanist (was The Spider's Web), while further up on the corner is Diane's Pool Hall. Continue up Morrison St and crossover to Monty’s (was Carters Bar). Cross back over and slightly further up is Thompsons Bar.

There is now a little walk passed the Edinburgh International Conference Centre until almost at Lothian Road (recognised by being extremely busy) where there is Lebowskis now closed (try Henry’s Cellar Bar), just before the corner.

Turn left down Lothian Road and cross over to visit Innes & Gunn Tap, then cross back over to the square in front of the Sheraton Hotel there is All Bar One in the far-right corner. Leaving here cross the road to Shakespears on the corner beside the Usher Hall. Opposite this is BrewDog and further down The Caley Picture House (Wetherspoon’s). Then further down from this is The Red Squirrel.

After these bars continuing down Lothian Rd to Princes St there are five bars at the junction of the five roads found here where Princes Street (see start of trail 1 - Edinburgh West End)

Pub Facts

 

A place this size is bound to have its own guides to illustrate the vast quantity, quality and styles of pubs.

CAMRA in Edinburgh

Many of the pubs do serve real ale and while a lot of pubs offer a choice of real ale some only offer one which is inevitably Deuchers. Quite often these pubs are only playing at selling real ale and the Deuchers is not as tasty as it can be.

 

Practically every pub offers food at lunch or all day

 Ryries Bar ★

reopened April 2022 thoroughly refurbished

 Ryries bar is just outside Haymarket station.

An entry in "Scotland's True Heritage Pubs" HISTORY

CAMRA Good Beer Guide 2024, 2025

Have one here

real ale      : Orkney Best  (Swanney)You Shall Not Pass  (Loch Lomond); Man O’Hoy (Orkney); Hurricane Jack (Fyne Ales);  Landlord;  Dark Island (Orkney)

heavy/pale ale: Preserve;  Local Motive ;  Session IPA (Stewart);  Happy Chappy (Cromatory);  Caledonia Best

 Lager: Leith Pils;  Staroperaman;   Estrella;  Tennent’s

 cider   : Strongbow                                                 Guinness

 The Haymarket

 The Haymarket is a large pub set on the apex of a Y-junction which gives it a more interesting shape inside. It is a Nicolson's pub - one of 7 in the city. There is a lot of room in it but it can be crowded at the bar. 12 pumps of real ale were available. There is more seating upstairs

Regular in Good beer Guide, including 2023

Have two here

real ale    : Deuchers,  Nicolson’s PA, Doom bar, Hummingbird, Bell 80,  Fat Sprat (Adnams),  Two Tides (Sharp’s), Timothy Taylor Dark Mild

heavy       : John Smith, McEwan's 70/-

lager         : Tennent’s;  Peroni, Carling;  Urquell

cider         : Aspall                                                Guinness

Pub Jukebox:

Alcohol themed music to listen to while you browse.

lego beer song

 The Jolly Botanist

formerly The Spider’s Web

The Jolly Botanist (formerly The Spider's Web)

Have a pint here

Real ale:   Deuchers

Heavy;     Coast To Coast;  Peculiar IPA

Lager:    Heineken,   Birra Moretti,   Affligem,  Amstel ; 3 Hop Lager

Cider:    Symonds           Guinness

 Diane's Pool Hall - now called Malone’s 

Diane's Pool Hall now called Malone’s had cheap pool, cheap beer and a largely male bias. Loud customers, loud juke box, lots of TVs

Have a half pint here

real ale    : nil

heavy        :Caledonia Best

lager         :Tennent's, Stella, Carling

cider         :Magners

 The Hebrides West End

was Monty's was Carter’s ★

Monty's (formerly called Carters Bar) is a small intimate bar.  Squashed seating either side of staircase leading to balcony over the bar.

Have a pint here

real ale    : Devil's Advocate (Caledonian), October Zest

heavy        :Belhaven Best

lager         :Kirin Ichiban, Stella, Red Stripe;  Tennent's

cider         : Strongbow                                                  Guinness

 Thompson's ★

Thompson's has two entrances to a one roomed bar. Wood dominates not just behind the bar but around the doors as well. Tables around the sides but plenty of standing room. Real ale is not luxury good. Loud and chatty.

Real Ale guide (CAMRA) regular 2022 last

Featured in Bob Steel's Edinburgh Pub Walks - books

Have one or two here

real ale    : London Pride, Jarl,Bitter & Twisted, Tyneside Blonde

heavy        : MeEwan 80/-; Belhaven Best

lager         :Tennent's

cider         : Strongbow                                                  Guinness

 Lebowskis 

closed, but threatening to reopen - Meanwhile there is Henry’s Cellar Bar still operating down below it.

Lebowskis  has a bar to the left with lots of standing room and some tall tables. Further to the right is a lot more seating. Outside decking to watch the traffic from.

Unfortunately closed down. Greene King say hope new premises opens soon https://www.edinburghlive.co.uk/news/legendary-edinburgh-theme-bar-closes-22082133 . Meanwhile there is Henry’s Cellar Bar still operating down below it.

Have a half pint here

real ale    : Deuchers

heavy       : Belhaven Best,

lager         :Carling, Coors, Grolsch, San Miguel, Heineken

cider         : Addlestone                                           Guinness

PLACES TO VISIT WITH PUBTRAILS

 The towns and villages highlighted on this web site have a wide variety of pubs and beers in them.  All of the places are great to visit, whether for a day or longer, and most have tourist attractions for all of the family.

There is a large variety of pubs throughout the different towns shown below. Some you may wish never to visit again but even discovering these can be interesting. There are pubs that you would not take your wife into. While some you could not take your girlfriend into. A few you would not take either into. However, most of the pubs are very pleasant.

HOME MAP of places visited

Alnwick Ambleside Anstruther Bakewell Bamburgh Barnard Castle Bath Berwick upon Tweed Birnam & Dunkeld Bourton on the Water Bowness on Windermere Bridge of Allan Chester Chichester Dunblane Dunoon Edinburgh Ely Fort William Glasgow Gourock Greenock                   Helensburgh Inverness Kelso Keswick Knaresbourgh Largs Linlithgow Lyme Regis Melrose Montrose Newton Stewart North Berwick Norwich Oban Pebbles Penzance Portree Pitlochry Quorn Richmond Rothesay St Andrews Seahouses Seend Shrewsbury Skipton Stirling Stratford-upon-Avon Stockton Heath Whitby Windemere Whitstable York

 Innes & Gunn Brewery Tap

Innes & Gunn Brewery Tap is a bar diner by Innes and Gunn has stools and shelve looking out of the windows either side of the door. Up a step or two is a long metal bar counter on the left-hand side. Opposite this is booth seating. Food offered all day. Some outside seating on pavement

Real Ale:      Jarl (Fyne Ales); Landlord;  Pilot Stout; Edinburgh Pale Ale (Edinburgh)

Craft:            Lagunitas IPA (Lagunitas Brewing, USA); Innes & Gunn Toasted Oak;  Innes & Gunn Original; Camden (Camden)

Lager:          Innes & Gunn Lager;  Camden (Camden)

Cider:          Thistly Cross (real)

Pub Quiz

Which mountains extend from West Virginia to Georgia and were immortalised in a Laurel and Hardy song?

Answer at foot of page

All Bar One

All Bar One is a large modern barn. Bar straight in front with large standing area. Seating to either side and outside.

Have half pint here

real ale     : Natural Blonde (Harviston)       Ruthaus Wheat Beer

lager         : Esterella,Tennents, Stella, Peroni, Grolsch, Amstel; Heiniken, Pilsner Urquell

 cider        :Aspall                                                

 Shakespeares ★

Shakespeares is a corner pub, its frontage is short but it goes back a fair bit and has outside seating down the side where it faces the Usher Hall.  A long pub that was probably two separate rooms at some point. This still splits into two serving areas. The rear area has 12 foot screen for sports. Food served all day

Have a pint here

real ale    :  Luck of The Irish (Stonehenge); Drop Kick (Caledonian);  Greene King IPA;  Butcombe Haka;  Extra Pale Ale (Nottingham)

Craft:         Punk IPA; Dead Pony Club; Bitter & Twisted, Schielhallion;  4 West

heavy       : Belhaven Best

lager         :Peroni;  Heineken, Stella, St Mungo

cider         : Symond's Founders                                          Guinness

 Red Squirrel ★ ❤

Red Squirrel is bar/cafe diner on Lothian Road with small tables and some bar stools. Attractively presented it has beer fonts coming out of back wall (which is being copied a lot). Excellent Burger Food served all day

Have one here

real ale     : Jarl, Cock of the Walk,

heavy        : Belhaven Best, Joker IPA, Hardcore Pale Ale,   Innis & Gunn

lager         :Black Isle Organic, San Miguel, Urquell, St Mungos,    Peroni, Tennent’s, Blue Moon, Weihenstephen

 cider        : Aspall                                  Guinness,    Black Ball Stout

“If you don't drink how else will your friends know that you love them at 2am?.”

seaside notice

Links for EDINBURGH city centre Pubtrails

  • Trail 1 - Princes St to Haymarket

    (yellow icons)

    The Huxley (formerly Rutland Bar)

    Ghillie Dhu

    The Angel's Share (formerly Hudsons)

    Ryan's Bar

    HP Mather.

    The Grosvenor

    Au Bar

    Teuchters

    The Voyage of Buck (was Bert's Bar)

    Mercat Bar

    The Haymarket

    Ryries.

  • Trail 2 Haymarket to Lothian Rd

    (green icons)

    This tour of the pubs starts from Haymarket station.

    Ryries (Closed)

    The Haymarket.

    The Jolly Botanist (formerly The Spider's Web)

    Diane's Pool Hall.

    Monty’s (was Carters Bar)

    Thompsons Bar

    Lebinskis (Closed)

    Innes & Gunn Tap (was The Beer Kitchen)

    All Bar One

    Shakespeares

    Red Squirrel

  • Trail 3 - Grassmarket

    (red icons)

    The Grassmarket contains seven pubs and there is an eighth called the Grassmarket just around the corner.

    Biddy Mulligans

    Maggie Dickson's Bar

    The Last Drop

    The White Hart

    The Beehive

    The Black Bull

    Fiddlers Arms

    JC Christie & Sons (formerly The Grassmarket)

  • Trail 4 - Around Bread St

    Walk up the left hand side of Lothian Rd from Princess St and after crossing to small streets start at

    The Red Squirrel

    Shakespeare.

    Innes & Gun Tap (was The Beer Kitchen)

    All Bar One.

    The Hanging Bat.

    The Chanter

    Monboddo.

    The Footlights

    The Blue Blazer

    The Dragonfly Cocktail Bar

    W.J Christie and Son (called The Grassmarket in trail 3).

  • Trail 5 - Beyond Grassmarket

    (purple icons)

    The Castle Arms

    The Bow Bar

    Bar Salsa

    Oz Bar

    Greyfriars Bobby bar

    Sandy Bell's

    Malone's

    The Doctors.

    Boteco Do Brazil

    Paradise Palms

    Frankenstein's

    George IV Bar

  • Trail 6 - Royal Mile

    (Brown icons)

    The Ensign Ewart

    The Jolly Judge

    Deacon Brodies

    The Albanach

    The Mitre

    The Royal Mile Tavern

    The Whiski Bar

    Number 1 High St

    The Tolbooth Tavern

    The Kilderkiln.

    The return journey is

    Cannon's Gait

    The White Horse

    The Worlds End

    Inn on The Mile

    The Royal McGregor

  • Trail 7 - Cowgate

    (dark blue) -

    The Inn on The Mile

    The Tron

    The Advocate

    The City Cafe

    OX184

    Brewdog

    The Three Sisters

    Bannerman's

    Bar 50

    Holyrood 9A

    The Globe

    Whistlebinkies

  • Trail 8 - Southside

    (orange icons)

    Inn on the Mile

    Biblos

    The Royal Oak

    The Whistle Stop

    Brass Monkey

    The Captain's Bar

    The Southsider

    Greenmantle

    McSorley's

    The Dagba

    Pear Tree House

    The Blind Poet

    Andrew Usher & Co

    The Potting Shed

  • Trail 9 - Around Waverley Station

    Out one exit and around to another entrance.

    (light blue icons)

    Half Way House

    Jinglin' Geardie's.

    Scotsman' Lounge

    The Malt Shovel

    The Hebrides

    Belushi's

    The Doric

    The Booking Office

    Guildford Arms

    Cafe Royal

Other interesting pages

  • Books on Beer

    A selection of recommended books covering all aspects of beer and brewing. There are books on the history of beer and others on different styles of beer.

    For example

    An Inebriated History of Britain by Peter Haydon

    Amber, Gold & Black by Martyn Cornell

    Brew Britannia by Jessica Boak & Ray Bailey

    The Story of the Pint by Martyn Cornell

    Miracle Brew by Pete Brown

    Built to Brew by Lynn Pearson

    And many more

  • Pubs visited by Stevenson & MacKay

    Craig Stevenson and John MacKay have used their bus passes to good effect. They have toured the towns and cities of Scotland visiting pubs. They recount their adventures in a series of books:

    The Auldest Boozers in Town

    The Cheap Way Round

    Still Goin’

    Inn Aff The Bar

    Goin’ Roon The Edge

    Mud, Sweat and Beers

    MAP
  • Books on Pubs

    A selection of recommended books on pubs and their history. There are books on the social history of pubs and the design of pubs through the ages.

    There are also books on visiting pubs and ones recommending pubs to visit.

    CAMRA’s Good Beer Guide

    Death of the English Pub by Christopher Hutt

    Brewers, Brands and the Pubs in their Hands by Tony Thornton

    Licensed to Sell by Brandwood, Davidson & Slaughter

    And many more

  • Map of CAMRA branches

    Map of CAMRA branches and e-mail links

  • Places visited by Pubtrails

    Map of villages, towns and cities visited by pubtrails

ANSWER: Blue Ridge Mountains