CHESTER

Trail 1 - Bridgegate & the river

Chester is a city in North west England close to the Welsh border. It has excellent transport links. By road the M53 and M56 run close by. It has an impressive train station and is easily accessed by bus; many bus tourist trips also visit Chester. It is even accessible by canal as the Shropshire Union canal runs through the city.

Chester still has the city walls from medieval times. This is the most complete set of walls in Britain. It is almost complete and a walk around the walls covers nearly 2 miles. Inside the city walls several streets have Rows. That is a lower level of shops (some below street level) then a walkway on top of these shops which serve another row of shops.

There are FIVE Chester PubTrails available on this site.

The canal trail (2) is the closest to the train station. However, the walk from the station to any of the trails is not long, it just means you may pass lots of pubs to get to a particular trail. Trail 3 and 4 start at Chester Cross and trails 1 and 5 start near the Amphitheatre. Trail 4 and 1 could easily meet. This means that trails can be expanded easily or mix and matched.

Trails have 10 to 13 pubs. This does not mean all pubs have to be visited (it is not a u-tube challenge) however, it does give flexibility. You can miss out pubs with no real ale or which are cocktail joints or old men's pubs or that are too busy or close together.

1.  Bridgegate and the river (black icons) Excellent dog friendly trail

This trail takes in 11 or 12 pubs, 5 of which are across the river. Several of the pubs are outstanding and 7 are starred. This is a pleasant evening trail with a lot of variety. It starts at the Amphitheatre or Old Dee Bridge.

2.  Along the canal (green icons)

Most of these pubs are close to the canal and easily accessed from it, rather than on the actual canal. Chester is a city and does not do quaint countryside canal pubs. Several of the pubs have appeared as the canal area is regenerated. This trail has a mixture of the old and the new. This is a long slow trail of 10 pubs, 5 of which are starred, Lunch or dinner should be factored in with The Old Harkers Arms excellent for food.

3.  Chester Cross to Chester Cross via Northgate Street (Dark Red Icons)

This trail travels down one of the main roads crossing the city. It goes to the centre of the city where it meets Watergate Street famous for its 'Rows' - shops with another street of shops on top of them. The trail has 13 pubs, 5 of which are starred. There are some old pubs on this trail which passes the Town Hall and the Cathedral. Some of these pubs exist in groups next door to each other which, unfortunately, reduces the walk between them to mere steps. The closeness of the pubs means that this trail needs to be taken slowly.

4.  Around Chester Cross (purple icons)

This trail has 10+ pubs with six of them starred. It is a gentle walk along a busy street.

5. The Amphitheatre plus  (Yellow Icons)

This trail covers a selection of 12 (three starred) pubs starting close to the amphitheatre.

 Trail 1 - Bridgegate and the river

 Starting at The Newgate, just beyond the Roman Amphitheatre.

Go through the gate and turn left down Park St following the city wall. To find The Albion. Then continue following the Wall turning to the right along Duke St which has The Cross Keys at the end of it. Opposite here are three pubs - up to the right is Ye Old King's Head; opposite and slightly to the left is The Brewery Tap; and at the foot of the hill by Bridgegate is The Bear and Billet though save this for the return journey.

Now go out of the gate and cross the river in Handbridge. Since you can only walk on the left just keep on the left and follow the hill up to a corner and turn left. Just after, and using, the zebra crossing turn right and walk along past the school to reach The Carlton Tavern. Leaving here walk back towards the school but turn left up Percy Road and at the top turn right on Eaton Road to get back to the main road. Turn up left and walk a minute to The Red Lion.

Cross over the road and walk back down the hill to meet The Handbridge, then The Grosvenor Arms and back at the bridge, The Ship Inn. Walk back across the river, now visit The Bear and Billet and cross over to walk down the river side to the boats, which brings you to Hickory's Smokehouse and then onto The Boathouse

This trail can be reduced in walk by starting at the bridge (missing The Albion) and cutting out the Carlton Tavern.

Pub Facts

 Male bar staff in Chester call customers “buddy” !

Most Chester pubs serve real ale and there is a lot of choice available including from several local breweries. Many pubs compete for impressing you with how old they are and there is a lot of black and white beams.

The city centre pubs usually serve food during the day time and many are actually food places serving beer.

Inevitably in a city of wide variety of pubs there were several that had shiny keg dispensers but with no identification to what was served – ask or find a sign somewhere on the wall (hopefully) – culprits were The Botanist, The Alchemist, Bar Lounge

There were several series cocktail places; The Alchemist and The Botanist were both making use of fancy chemistry set glassware and CO2 smoke.

Several craft ale places with prices reflecting the style on offer include Beer Heroes, Common Street Social and The Botanist, and The Cavern of the Curious Gnome with better prices and real ale.

Cheapest prices were the Sam Smiths pubs; The Falcon and Ye Olde Boot, and of course The Square Bottle (Wetherspoons). Ye Olde Custom House is worth checking out.

Brewing pubs included The Pied Bull, Brewhouse & Kitchen and The Brewery Tap

 The Albion

The Albion, above, is a small three roomed pub. It would be a remarkable old-fashioned boozer even without the World War memorabilia decorating all three rooms. The main door is at the side. On entry you can go to the largest room on the left or a smaller snug, to the right, with a larger room (still small) through from this.

Have one or two here.

real ale    : Southwold (Adnams); Golden XPA

lager         : Carling

cider         :                                                Guinness

The Cross Keys

The Cross Keys is a one roomed corner pub owned by Joules Brewery -and it tells you this everywhere! The entrance takes you into a large bright room - lots of light and bright wood. The bar is round to the left.

Good Beer Guide 2016-21

Have one here

real ale    : Charger (St George); Pale Ale, Slumbering Monk, Blonde (all Joules)

lager         :Blue Moon, Carling, Grolsch

cider         : Stowford Press; Weston's Trad Scrumpy                                                  Guinness

Pub Jukebox:

Alcohol themed music to listen to while you browse.

cigarettes & alcohol - Oasis

 Ye Old King's Head

Ye Old King's Head built in 1622. Tastefully laid out with alcove and open table seating this is an attractive hotel.

Have a half pint here

real ale    : Black Sheep; Doombar; EPA

bitter         : John Smith

lager         :Coors Light; Carling; Fosters; Peroni

cider         : Thatcher's Gold                                              Guinness

 The Brewery Tap

The Brewery Tap is the pub for The Spitting Feathers Brewery. Go up the stairs to enter a Jacobean great hall dating from 16th Century. Some of the walls are still original intertwined branches with mud and manure complete with tapestries. Food served all day. 

CAMRA Good Beer Guide 2103-21, 2024, 2025

Good Pub Guide 2013

Have a pint here

real ale    : Old Wavertonian; Muldoon's Suffolk Ale;      Et Tu Brutus (Derventio); Wentworth  (Wentworth);   Borscough Flat Rib Mild (Burscough)

lager         :Bud, Becks

cider        

The Carlton Tavern

The Carlton Tavern is a local’s pub as it is just out of way for tourists glancing across bridge to Handbridge though it is an easily walk if you know it is there. There are some tables outside the entrance. Right hand door is labelled ‘Games Room’ and left is ‘Lounge’ both with high ceiling and lots of natural light. There is an open square servery which serves both rooms and just beyond servery is a connecting corridor. The wooden floored games room is very light as there are large windows on two sides. It has darts and pool, and a stage at far end for bands and large projector screen. The lounge has banquette seating around the walls, including an alcove opposite the servery. There is a large fireplace at the end of the carpeted room with seating to either side. Dogs welcome

4.00pm opening during week.

Have a pint here.

Real ale :   Hayes Original 1863;  Golden Wayward Sun

Lager     :  carling;  Amstel;  San Miguel

Cider      :  Strongbow ; Strongbow Dark Fruit                        Guinness

Sherlock’s dog friendly pubs.

 

Sherlock says some of the best pubs for dogs were on this trail –The Handbridge, The Ship Inn, The Carlton Tavern, Red Lion in Handbridge, Bear and Billet, Cross Keys, The Albion, and Brewery Tap

 The Red Lion ★

The Red Lion (Handbridge) is very much a popular local’s pub as it just out of range of tourists glancing across bridge to Handbridge though only a couple of minutes walk up the main road if you know it is there. With seating outside and traditional entrances at right and left side. Both entrances go to the same room now. There is seating along the windows between the doors and the servery is opposite this seating. Further seating down the left-hand side. The right-hand side has some seating, darts and the route to the outside patio area at back. Dogs welcome

Opens at 4.30 during week.

Have a pint here   

Real ale :   Doom Bar;  Cheshire Cat; Wainwright

Bitter     :  Worthington Cream Flow

Lager     :  San Miguel;  Carling;  Coors;  Estrella

Cider      :  Thatchers Gold                                             Guinness

Pub Quiz

"Louis, I think this is the beginning of a beautiful friendship" is the last line in which film?

Answer at foot of page

 The Handbridge

Handbridge probably just out of range tourists glancing across bridge to Handbridge though an easily walk if you know it is there. This is a large bar with very large outside garden area. There is seating either side of the door. The carpeted left is the smaller side. The rest of the pub is wooden floored. The right-hand side of entrance has tables going along the window side. The servery is in the middle of the right-hand wall with tables opposite it. Beyond this are stairs to the large garden area which has three supersized dog kennels for sheltered seating of 8.

Have a pint here

Real ale :   Unicorn; Theakston’s Bitter  (has 4 pumps but only ever was to  one on in 4 visits)

Lager     :  Red Stripe;  Birra Moretti;  Amstel;  Maltsmiths

Cider      :  Strongbow Cloudy Apple;  Orchard                                      Guinness

PLACES TO VISIT WITH PUBTRAILS

 The towns and villages highlighted on this web site have a wide variety of pubs and beers in them.  All of the places are great to visit, whether for a day or longer, and most have tourist attractions for all of the family.

There is a large variety of pubs throughout the different towns shown below. Some you may wish never to visit again but even discovering these can be interesting. There are pubs that you would not take your wife into. While some you could not take your girlfriend into. A few you would not take either into. However, most of the pubs are very pleasant.

HOME MAP of places visited

Alnwick Ambleside Anstruther Bakewell Bamburgh Barnard Castle Bath Berwick upon Tweed Birnam & Dunkeld Bourton on the Water Bowness on Windermere Bridge of Allan Chester Chichester Dunblane Dunoon Edinburgh Ely Fort William Glasgow Gourock Greenock                   Helensburgh   Inverness Kelso Keswick Knaresbourgh Largs Linlithgow Lyme Regis Melrose Montrose Newton Stewart North Berwick Norwich Oban Pebbles Penzance Portree Pitlochry Quorn Richmond Rothesay St Andrews Seahouses Seend Shrewsbury Skipton Stirling Stratford-upon-Avon Stockton Heath Whitby Windemere Whitstable York

The Grosvenor Arms  

The Grosvenor Arms just out of range tourists glancing across bridge to Handbridge though an easily walk if you know it is there. Ener via a short corridor. Servery is on end of left-hand side. There is seating between windows and servery. Round from to right of entrance is a large carpeted seating area with dining height tables. There is a large room through from this main area. There is outside seating to left of building

Have a half pint

Real ale :   Abbot; 

Bitter     :  Worthington Cream Flow

Lager     :  Coors;  Carling;  Stella

Cider      :  Strongbow;  Strongbow Dark Fruit                        Guinness

 The Ship Inn ★

The Ship Inn is well in range of tourists glancing across bridge to Handbridge as it is spotted by side of the bridge. A comfy and attractive bar. The servery is in the middle of the right-hand wall. Stairs to right of entrance go to upstairs restaurant. Three tall tables to left of entrance. Opposite servery is fireplace with armchairs and small tables to either side. Several square table in middle opposite servery. Beyond the servery the room is split by a large abacus, there is a space laid out with large dining style tables. TV is in far corner here. Lots of atmospheric bright filament lights hanging in a variety of ways from ceiling. Floor is tiled at counter and wooden elsewhere. Food all day and dog friendly

Have a pint here

Real ale :   Gold (Ludlow);  Amber (Thwaites);  Scarecrow (Brimstage)

Bitter     : 13 Guns American Pale Ale;  61 Deep

Lager     :  Estrella;  San Miguel;  Carling

Cider      :  Kingstone Press                                           Guinness

Bear and Billet ★

Bear and Billet was built in 1664. It is owned and serves Okell's Ales from the Isle of Man.  Basically, two open plan rooms - bar area with seating at front and tables and chairs which can be used for dining through. More seating and dining upstairs. Sky sports shown.

Outside courtyard. Food served every day.

CAMRA Good Beer Guide

Good Pub Guide 2013-19.  Dogs welcome

Have a pint or two here

real ale    : Okell's bitter,  Okell's IPA, Arizona (Phoenix); Billabong (Big Bog);  Spitfire

Bitter:        :Absolutely (Madness)

lager         :Carling,  Veltins;  Weihenstephaner  Amstel

cider         : Thatchers   ; Hogan's Wild Elder                       Guinness

 Hickory's Smokehouse

Hickory's Smokehouse is an American style diner specialising in BBQ flavoured food. Indeed, your eyes may sting on entrance so powerful is the sauce lingering in the air. There is a small bar with booths. Lots of outside seating looking across the river Dee

Have half pint here

real ale     : Hickory's

lager         : Amstel, Heiniken, Brooklyn's Brewery

 cider        :Symonds Founder's Reserve                                                 Guinness

 The Boathouse

The Boathouse (JW Lees)  is a dining pub by the river.  Attractive wooden bookcase/ display shelves with boating nick knacks and old books. These split the pub into comfortable seating areas. Outside terrace.

Have a  pint here

real ale    : Lee's Bitter, Draymen's Pleasure;   The Governor

bitter       : John Smith,

lager         :Carlsberg, San Miguel, Regents

cider         : Strongbow

                                        Guinness

Links for CHESTER city centre Pubtrails

  • Trail 1 - Bridgegate & the river

    (black icons)

    The Albion.

    The Cross

    Ye Old King's Head

    The Brewery Tap

    The Bear and Billet

    The Carlton Tavern

    The Red Lion.

    The Handbridge

    The Grosvenor

    The Ship Inn

    The Bear and Billet

    Hickory's

    The Boathouse

  • Trail 2 - Along the canal

    (green icons)

    The Old Harkers Arms

    The Cross

    The Artichoke.

    The Old Harkers Arms

    The Cornerhouse (formerly The Compass).

    Crossing over City Rd

    The Cellar

    The Mill Hotel.

    The Lock Keeper

    Oddfellows

    The City Tavern.

  • Trail 3 - Chester Cross to Northgate and back

    (dark red icons)

    The Victoria

    The Amber Lounge -closed.

    The Commercial Hotel

    The Dublin Packet.

    The Coach House

    The Shropshire Arms

    The Red Lion

    The Liverpool Arms.

    The Pied Bull

    The Coach House.

    The Music Hall Tap

    The Botanist

    Duttons.

    Ye Old Boot.

  • Trail 4 -Chester Cross & Grosvener St

    (purple icons)

    Watergate Up

    Beer Heroes

    Ye Olde Custom House

    Bar Lounge

    The Architect.

    The Golden Eagle

    The Saddle Inn

    The Falcon

    The Cavern of the Curious Gnome

    The Slug and Lettuce

    The Commonhall St Social

  • Trail 5 - Amphitheatre to town

    (yellow icons)

    The Albion

    All Bar One

    The Church

    The Plumber's Arms closed

    The Alchemist

    The Marlborough Arms

    The Brewhouse & Kitchen

    Square Bottle

    Fifteen

    Revolution

    The Old Queen's Head

Other places with several trails

“I saw a notice that said "Drink Canada Dry" and I have just started.

 

.”

— Brendan Behan 

Other interesting pages

  • Books on Beer

    A selection of recommended books covering all aspects of beer and brewing. There are books on the history of beer and others on different styles of beer.

    For example

    An Inebriated History of Britain by Peter Haydon

    Amber, Gold & Black by Martyn Cornell

    Brew Britannia by Jessica Boak & Ray Bailey

    The Story of the Pint by Martyn Cornell

    Miracle Brew by Pete Brown

    Built to Brew by Lynn Pearson

    And many more

  • Books on Pubs

    A variety of books looking at the development of public houses.

  • Map of CAMRA branches

    Map of CAMRA branches and e-mail links

  • Places visited by Pubtrails

    Map of villages, towns and cities visited by pubtrails

  • Local CAMRA

    Chester and South Clwyd CAMRA

ANSWER: Casablanca