Map of places

Edinburgh -West End 1/2



Click picture to enlarge....

Ghillie Dhu is a converted church which has been floored to have a large function/band room upstairs and a large (church sized) 'public bar' at street level. There is a long serving area with plenty of standing room and long tall tables. Beyond that is a large seating/dining area, raised up a few steps, where music is also performed during the evening. Behind the bar there are further booths for four or snugs for bigger parties. The booths can be served through small hatches in the back bar. Food served.

Have a pint here


real ale    : Deuchars, Gillie Ale

heavy        :Caledonia Best

lager         :Tennent's, Starapramen

cider         : Magners                                                  Guinness

Grosvenor serving area to the left is long and the drinking space narrow. To the right is a larger seating area with booths and tables.


Have a half pint here


real ale    : Deuchers

heavy       : Caledonia best,

lager         :Tennent's, Stella, 1664, Peroni, Stella Black

cider         : Aspall  , Weston's Wyld Wood real cider                                                                                                              Guinness

Ryries bar is just outside Haymarket station. There is a long bar with a smaller sitting room beyond. Six pumps but only one on to sell real ale. Fridges were bare and some lager was off. It has an attractive public bar feel. Entrance doors a bit cramped, especially if smokers there.


Have one here

real ale     : Flying Scotsman (more pumps but no more beer)

heavy        : Caledonian Best

lager         : Carling Stella, Fosters, Bud

 cider        : Strongbow                                                 Guiness

Huxleys (formerly (Rutland Bar) is a well-designed curved room with booths and variety of styles of tables and chairs. Lots of tables for two. Music and lighting to relax to. Large windows to people watch at this busy junction. Food served.

now called THE HUXLEY

Have a half pint here


real ale    : nil

heavy       :Deuchars, Bitter & twisted, Caledonia Best, Bellhaven Best

lager         :Schiehallion,, Birra Moretta, Heineken,Carling, St Mungos

cider         : Strongbow                                              Guinness

Trail 2- Princes St to Haymarket Station (yellow icons)

Take a train to Waverley station and walk through the Princes Street Gardens to reach the end of Princes Street and the start of the West End.


At this end of Princes Street there is a junction of five roads and there several bars to visit. After leaving the gardens reach the corner and cross Lothian Road. On the opposite corner is the Huxley (formerly Rutland Bar) and to the right of it, in a converted church, is the Ghillie Dhu. The street is now Shandwick Place.


Looking across the road and to the right there are two roads intersecting together - Hope Street to the right and Queensferry St to the left  - with the start of Shandwick Place. Hudsons is on the Hope Street (right hand street),  Ryan's Bar at the apex of the junction  and across Broughton St (the left road) from Ryan's is HP Mather.

These first five bars are also the last five of trail 2 (see below). This makes it possible to link these to together into one long trail.


Around the corner and walking down Shandwick Place is The Grosvenor and back over on the left at a corner is the Au Bar (described on next page)

You are now in a large impressive crescent called Coates Crescent. Back track a little to the side road across Shandwick Place from the Au Bar. This is called Stafford St. Walk up this and take the first left into William St. Along here, opposite one another, are Teuchters and Bert's Bar. Continue along William Street and turn left and walk back down to the middle of Coates Crescent.

There is now a short walk to the Mercat Bar still on the right hand pavement and then, finally, on the opposite side of the road is The Haymarket. On the opposite junction, beside the station, is Ryries. 

These last two bars are also the first two  of trail 2 (see below). This makes it possible to link these to together into one long trail.

The Angel's Share (formerly Hudsonsis the bar of a hotel. It is modern and very shiny. Low lights, low music and dining tables for two. Food served.

Have a half pint here


real ale    : nil

heavy       :Innes & Gunn, (only by the half pint), Bellhave Best,

lager         :Carlsberg, San Miguel, Heineken

cider         : Strongbow                                             Guinness

Ryan's is a large round bar on a junction corner. It has a high ornate ceiling. There is a restaurant downstairs and a coffee bar in the right hand curve.  Lots of tables close together (small & round seating 4 to give a cafe feel) and not a lot of standing room except at the bar. Outside seating along the road. Serves food.


Have one here


real ale    : Old speckled Hen, Deuchars, Bitter & twisted, Stewarts 80/-

heavy        : Innes & Gunn, Bellhaven Best

lager         :Tennent's, 1664, Carling, Heineken, Stella, Blue Moon,


cider         : Strongbow                                                  Guinness

 HP Mathers is an old style bar which has retained its old bar charm - mainly men; some drunks; lots of chatter; three different sports on TV; a wooden floor where it is impossible to see the planks. The tall mirrored back gantry is great.

One of Scotland's Heritage pubs

Featured in Bob Steel's Edinburgh Pub Walks


Have a  pint here


real ale    : 6X, deauchers, Flying Scotsman, West End cask

heavy       : Bellhaven best,, McEwan's 70/-. John Smiths

lager         :Tennent's, Stella, Carlsberg

cider         :   Strongbow                                            Guinness

Edinburgh West End con't Edinburgh Haymarket to Lothian Rd Edinburgh Grassmarket


fertility  test

Drink and Music


Oasis - Champagne Supernova

Edinburgh Bread St Beyond The Grassmarket

I drink so much that the last time I gave a urine sample it had an olive in it.


Rodney Dangerfield

Waverley station Cowgate Towards Southside